TP Home | About | Newsletter | Blogs |

Best prep & finish for cast iron guttering?


(Amateurhour64) #1

Morning all, renovating the exterior of our place & just coming to the gutters.

Guttering is all cast, original (1920’s)& in good shape. They have been painted on a fairly regular basis (maybe every 10 years) & bar some light rust drop off on the very rear edge, they are remarkably sound & consistent. Last coat 3 years back was spray hammerite.

I’d like to repaint them & do so in the best finish & most long term manner. Not worried about cost within reason.

Have been doing all facias & gutter level woodwork in Rubbol Primer+, Spachtel & XD gloss with great success. Would like to bring the gutters up to good standard.

Any advice, recommendations or systems of approach would be very gratefully received.

Idea for another Blog guys? … finishing exterior ancillary items?

Many thanks in advance


(Andy Crichton) #2

Which ancillary items did you have in mind?


(Amateurhour64) #3

Hi Andy.

The cast guttering & metal external pieces to start with and then plastic down pipes…not great practice to paint them but if you have to…how best? Any special paints, processes.

Also an odd one but saw this on TV a couple of nights back but paint to alter brick colours by shades. Example on an SOS building program showed them painting bricks to adjust shade/tone remarkably successfully.

The same could apply to treating previously paint marked bricks. I’m pretty good at avoiding drips & paint spatter but not the case of the previous owners/decorators.

Those are the ones that impact me right now on my current project. I can see ways to do them of course but given this new world on TP site of upping the results and systems, I thought there may be better products and ways to achieve quality results.

There’s probably more I’m sure.


(Andy Crichton) #4

I have asked for a couple of experts to drop by with info on your guttering.

Removing paint from brick, for ease, a spray bottle of Graffiti Remover is your friend. http://traditionalpainter.com/fluxaf


(Amateurhour64) #5

Brilliant, look forward to seeing that Andy…mind you it seems we have a little time according to BBC weather forecast.

And it appears another on-line order coming up…the Fluxaf products look the business and will be giving that a try shortly. If it works as well as the other stuff I’ve been ordering via recommendations on the site I’ll be very happy.

Thanks again Andy


(Andy Crichton) #6

I moved a post to a new topic: Brick tinting


(Amateurhour64) #7

…to the rescue again :slight_smile:

All interesting stuff & off to take a read on the brick dye products.

I suspected when posting that it might be best to stick with the Hammerite. it goes on well, looks OK but does not last as long (cosmetically) as they might have us think. It sort of blooms a bit…not broken or flaked but not the same gloss sheen that it did have.

I had heard of an enamel paint that they use on barge or metal boat hulls but don’t know the name. Apparently once applied that stuff is rock hard & lasts an age. What the finish would be like or how easy to apply I’m not sure.

As for the plastic pipes yes that sounds good. Had previously used Weathersheild but for reasons I now understand from your Blog, it does not last so well finish wise as the oil based paints. Will follow that formula & use some of the black XD I bought.

Given that it already has Weathersheild on (in the main solid but dull) would it be sensible to use the Cover Stain product you suggested for sash windows? Have to say that stuff worked very well over a strong Oxford Blue base we were trying to loose.


(Andy Crichton) #8

I moved a post to an existing topic: Brick tinting


(Russ Pike) #9

Your hammerite is cellulose based and depending on time of year and conditions when applied can cause it to bloom

Here you go:


They also stock Manor Coatings who do some fantastic high build metal primers and Industrial Enamels

Have you read this one?

Phase 3! God I’m glad my Mrs doesn’t come on here, she’d have a fit!


(Amateurhour64) #10

Yeah took a more detailed look and it wasn’t so bad…was done June when humidity was low and warm. I think the bloom as I call it is more a rust edge breaking through here and there, is more like that ‘oil on water multi-colour’ break through…the actual finish is probably as good as Hameritte can muster.

Yes going to take a good read of the link you sent…many thanks for that. Would like to get a higher gloss finish.

And the oil exterior article was the very first thing I ever read on TP, it hooked me and in fact the last few postings on that thread were from me.:slight_smile:

Cheers Russ


(Paints and Interiors) #11

Just a quick chip in - I have just had a customer wanting a product to go over both her Victorian cast and plastic guttering.

The product i advised her to use is the Owatrol Deco. As with all Owatrol Oil products it has the magic 'ingredient’so it can be applied direct to rust - there were quite a few areas on the gutter in question.

It will also adhere to any surface so with a clean up and maybe a very light key, straight onto your plastic too.

It is a pricey product, but Owatrols products work really well, and if you only need 2 coats, it will save you time.

I have not yet had feedback from the customer, so will keep you posted.

If you need any more info, do let me know.


(Amateurhour64) #12

Hi there…sods law, just did one run with some Krust and an old tin smooth black hammeritte I found earlier.

Would be interested to know where to get it from mind as still have lot more to do. Also is it purchasable in sensible quantities not industrial sizes?

thanks for the pointer


(Paints and Interiors) #13

Tin sizes are 0.5, 2.5 and 20L. Coverage is 12-15m2/L so a 2.5 will do a fair amount of guttering.

If you need any extra info on supply etc just give me a call - 01986 788993.

Ben


(DavidJ) #14

This is interesting as I’ve just been to quote a customer who has metal down pipes, also metal grates over her basement window wells and metal ironwork fencing. She wants this quoted for separately. Not bad nick, but flaking paint above rust in some spots.

Been a while since I’ve done old metalwork. Am I right in thinking for the flaky rusted bits I’ll really want an angle grinder with wire brush attachment to prep properly?

Metalwork is in black. I was thinking of using Owatrol on it, though if I can get it in paint form so much the better.


(Andy Crichton) #15

[quote]Quote from DavidJ on June 19, 2014, 07:45

Been a while since I’ve done old metalwork. Am I right in thinking for the flaky rusted bits I’ll really want an angle grinder with wire brush attachment to prep properly?

[/quote]

I would adopt mechanical methods for sure, those old wooden handle wire brushes 5 for a £ good for little.


(DavidJ) #16

Yes def better using customers leccy than my elbow grease! That Flex palm sander I bought on a TP recommendation has been a bit of an eye-opener. I would not go back.

Might post some pics up later just to see if my time estimate is about right, as I’ve not done any metal work for a while.


(Charles Budd) #17

Has anyone got experience of repairing cast iron guttering, prior to painting? I’ve got a large semi-detached property with a mixture of plastic and cast iron guttering, in various stages of decrepitude. Some of it may need replacing (which I would not do) but some could be repaired and decorated, which I’d like to do if possible. Any advice welcome.

I’d attach images, but not sure how to do so on here.


(Andy Crichton) #18

Hi Charlie, I know plastic padding gets a bad rap on wood, but I have done small repairs to old gutter with the auto glass fabric and padding. Used oil finishes. Best to take them down and get them bone dry. chance to use up any old oil paint scraps on the insides of the guttering too.

To add an image look at the bottom of the text box and there are 3 file upload buttons.


(Andy Crichton) #20

So you clean off around the damaged area, and apply this sort of fabric with a resin hardener to make it set solid http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repairs/car-body-fillers/davids-fastglas-glass-fibre-tissue and then fill over with a car body filler. Grind it all down and away you go. I wasn’t aware of Upol at the time, but it is a name to look out for. This Halfords page gives a feel for what is out there. http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repairs/car-body-fillers

I don’t do car body repairs btw! Guttering is my limit :slight_smile:


(Charles Budd) #21

Photos of said guttering:

Looking online, is some kind of epoxy-steel blend a possibility? Or would you advise getting specialists in?