Hi all . I’ve got a big kitchen to paint ( no units ) walls ceilings and woodwork. Just wanted to see what you all think is the best sealer for new plaster . I’ve seen owatrol do a product that can go in the emulsion. Just seeing if any of you have used this to any succes? Usually I seal with bins 123. I used to use Johnstones wall primer sealer which was decent but you can’t get it any more . I use beeline primer sealer if it’s being lined but I’ve never painted over it . And I have reservations about zin guardz ass it leaves a sheen on the surface and not sure if emulsion would key to it . Any suggestions much appreciated. Thanks gaz
If you denib the new plaster, remove any dust, and add Owatrol Emulsa-bond to the first coat of emulsion, you should achieve a strong bond to the plaster and a fairly solid coat. Apply a standard coat of emulsion on top and that’s a 2 coat solid finish over new plaster.
One of the main criticisms of additives is that it costs money The reality is every litre of E-B you add to the paint creates another litre of paint. So when you do the maths, it is not really an issue on small scale jobs. And anythng that cuts out a coat is worth its weight in labour gold!
As ever, if you aren’t sure, do a test area to prove it to yourself.
I have never painted over Beeline Sealer either. It was a feature “added” many years after it was launched. I suspect Beeline saw Gardz was stealing a march, being paintable, and have tested their own sealer product. Again, test it to see for yourself on a small area.
I believe that Gardz is the sealer behind Jack Pauhl’s big non-patchy painted ceilings and one-coat wall painting demos.
So you don’t have to give it a 3rd coat ?! I mean no problem doing it 3 times just want a good bond . I think your right about beeline . I don’t know why they don’t push there products more as that sealer is really good for me better than gardz wen papering or lining … I seen a few vids of that jack bloke . His accent gets on me nerves lol …
Try it. I have used it in light and medium colour waterbased paint and it looks pretty good in 1. But 1 coat doesn’t have the thickness to offer the expected protection.
Some accents are worth getting over
Hahahah cheers Andy . Who is he ? Is he some big shot in the decorating world ? Does he expertise in kitchens like you do ? I was reading summat about him spraying doors an summat on his way of pricing !
He wouldn’t say so, but in my view he is a remarkable “painter” and you could do worse than read and watch everything published on Jack Pauhl
It is quite daunting when you jump in, but very liberating too, once you grasp that he is breaking all stereotypes and questioning all long held assumptions in order to get genuinely the best result as quickly and efficiently as possible. His findings are not really what conservative painters or manufacturers with flawed products want to read and watch all day every day.
As an idea, the standard and speed of my emulsion painting went off the scale when I got my head around a few of his barrage of points - and by only using better quality acrylic wall paint, massive improvements are in everyone’s grasp!
Well if your recomending him il defo start looking more at his work … As since being on your site I’ve learn more in the last 6 months than I have in the last 6 years . So thanks for that . It’s amazing how easy it is to be stuck in a rut without really knowing it . Always push for better results …
Hi his brush and roller guides are worth buying,and his forum is good,TP is packed with lots of good info as well,and the TP newsletter is excellent if you dont already subscribe to it.
A post was merged into an existing topic: Hard wax oil choice for oak doors
Andy so for you what are these better quality acrylic wall paints you would use ? I want to change my products now to move up a level . And also I thought I’d ask seen as I have seen you mention it a few times . Why were the 80’s bad for the trade ?
Nothing wrong with the 80’s per se, (apart from hairdo’s), In relative terms vinyl matt, oil based gloss and undercoat were still quite “honest”, as the big companies hadn’t really got into squeezing out every ounce of quality to make an extra buck. But my view is that the UK trade in 2010 was still happily thinking it was 30 years ago and all was fine, but it absolutely wasn’t. UK trade paint was shown up by retail designer brands like Little Greene and the continental and US paint companies with genuinely premium grade ingredients, particularly acrylic.
There has been huge amounts of innovation since 2010 of course, especially in UK waterbased trade paint - eyes have been forced open to higher standards. Mirka showed how not to kill yourself and your clients slowly by dust, natural bristle isn’t the answer to everything, and so it goes on.
So in answer to your first question, just go for as close to 100% acrylic wall paints as you can find and based on my experience, you should notice a big leap in quality and peace of mind. And whenever you look at prices of paint and think it is dear, just work out the overall cost including labour. A £10 meal can be very expensive, a £50 meal very cheap!
Thanks Andy . Makes sense . Gonna try mythic emulsions . That’s a high acrylic one . And as for the dustless sander had my Mirka years now . Just makes u think what we used to do without it . Dust in every room in the house …
Try eicó. Their Alterior range are all pure Acrylics - Interior and Exterior Matt, Eggshell, Satin & Gloss. If you need any info just ask. Ben
Cheers . Have you got his details
Hi Gary - call me on 01379 854762 Ben
Cheers Ben il ring you tommorow an discuss best way to go .
Whats peoples oppion on using Bullseye 123,for mist coat diluited?
Be spot on mate . But an exspensive option in my opinion