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Best undercoat for Tikkurila Miranol?


(darlic) #1

I am about to use tikkurila miranol gloss,on skirting ,and doors,do i go for oil based undercoat,or water based,would the oil based produce a better result,than the waterbased,yes andy going to take your advice two coats of undercoat,not the usually one,also whens it better to use water based,is it better on certain surfaces and when you need to get job done.


(darlic) #2

Dulux oil based undercoat anygood,need tips on good undercoats.


(Andy Crichton) #3

Missed that one. Use the Tikkurila Otex primer undercoat under Miranol. Dries quick flat and smooth.


(RJ Taylor Decoration Ltd) #4

Agree with Andy. I would go for the Otex under Miranol. If you want a water based undercoat you could try Feelings Furniture Primer, but I would check with Holmans first.

Tikkurila products are not the same as other paints and are formulated to work together. I definitely wouldn’t use Dulux, or any other manufacturers, oil undercoat for Miranol.


(pd67) #5

Otex all the way. Stick with the Tikkurila system, you won’t get much better.


(Mark Nash) #6

I would deffinately go with Otex primer undercoat if applying MIRANOL


(Martin Guest) #7

I too have always used Tikkurila OTEX under MIRANOL - great products both! really impressed with MIRANOL (lovely “enamel” finish); second coats very easily with little to no drag (as can be an issue with others - IMO)


(Holty) #8

Hello Martin,
Read somewhere on here that Miranol is difficult to apply and was thinking about using it on top of Otex on previously glossed woodwork on a job (if I get it). Any advice on application? Or would you recommend another gloss system thatr might be easier to apply?
Lee.


(Martin Guest) #9

Hello mate,

Thanks for the ask - it has been a while since I used Miranol… if my memory serves me correctly, the system will be be safe as houses over previously glossed substrate.

Degrease, nib back, clean down (however you want/do), OTEX, 320 grit, OTEX, clean, Miranol, 320 grit, clean, Miranol… maybe wipe over with white spirits between coats of topcoat - also might be a nice idea to free up the Miranol 10% to keep it open…???

Don’t want to teach you how to suck eggs… hope that this helps - I’m sure that there are many others who would say to do it differently to me…


(Holty) #10

Thanks for that Martin. What about actually putting it on? That’s where I think the difficulties may be. Any technique adjustments needed specifically for Miranol?


(Martin Guest) #11

No particular difficulties that i recall… depends upon your own techniques - personally, I prefer to roller on and lay off with a good quality laying off brush to minimise orange peel. As I said before 10% to free up the Miranol as it can thicken as you go down the tin… make sure that the base coats (OTEX) are solid, as with any system the base coat is the colour and seal, the topcoat provides the glaze. first coat of Miranol is easy work and ‘should’ go easily over the OTEX the second coat is to obliterate any potential misses from the first coat and to provide the perfect finish, so you can afford to thin down further to provide a total fluid, enamel finish.

Honestly, I had no problems what-so-ever with Miranol top coats - maybe Mark Nash could provide further insights… I believe that he has used Tikkurila’s oil based systems more extensively.

Failing that you could also look at Helmi 80 (80% sheen), that may provide an alternative for you???


(Holty) #12

Thanks a lot for that Martin, appreciate the detail in your replies. I’ll have a look at the Helmi as well.
Cheers mate.


(Mark Nash) #13

Otex & Miranol , marriage made in heaven , no problems