TP Home | About | Newsletter | Blogs |

Brush test using Johnstones Aqua Gloss - from a keen painter


(Andy Crichton) #1

I received this write up from Ifty Patel who has gone to a lot of trouble. Appreciate the effort and some useful info to ponder.

[quote]Method was simple - Johnstones Aqua Gloss was applied onto undercoated wood with two dips of brush/or eqivalent…use same amount of brush strokes and same method of application / layoff.

Method was quick…like I was painting a lot of trim…

Paint brushes… Corona Cody 2", Corona Excalibur 2.5", Wooster Silvertip (used for 10hrs) 2.5", Corona kingston 2", Proform Picasso 2.5", Corona Cortez 2.5", Purdy Monarch Elite 2", Purdy Pro Extra Glide 2.5",

Photo 1 below - I used a cheap synthetic brush at botton and a Cody above…good shine produced with Cody.

Other observations were I did not use a Corona Knight or Wooster FTP to compare 100% chinex against each other.

There was more gloss effect / shine on some…so using a quality brush did affect the shine level of the finished product.

The chinex was the easiest to wash.

The Cody is simiar to the Purdy Monarch Elite being a mixed Orel and Tynex but was a lighter colour…maybe a different blend ?

The Cody was a lot softer than the Cortez…and somehow because of the Cody’s design, it behaved differently and felt a lot softer and more responsive.

The Purdy Elite’s were very stiff and left a lot of brush marks.

I also note the Silvertip, although initialy very soft and shiny lost its suppleness when wet, both the silvertip and picasso behaved very differently when wet…a lot of the strands would bunch up etc…

The Chinex bristles seem to seperate more easily when wet.

The Cody’s tipping was excellent and an ideal angle for leaving a great finish. I note in one of Jack Pauhl’s brush reviews, he criticised too steep chiselling/tipping as causing problems.

These are just initial thoughts and observations…would be very interested in your remarks/observations and suggestions for improvements in testing…
[/quote]


(Andy Crichton) #2

When talking about brushes it is always a good idea to judge them in context of a specific paint, so this is a good basis for a test, thanks. As an exaggerated example to make the point, those brushes wouldn’t get the same results with an oil gloss.

Just to clarify, Johnsons Aqua gloss is a hybrid waterborne paint.

The photos do give a good idea of the difference in finish you achieved with different brushes. Would you say you have used them all quite a bit over a period of time

I tell you, Corona Cody with the right paint type is a quiet contender for a title or two.


(Charles Budd) #3

Very interesting review. I agree that the Silvertip and Picasso do have a tendency to bunch up in certain paints - particularly heavier ones - I only use the Picasso for emulsion, and the Silvertip for woodwork when I need a good finish - but wash it out very frequently. I’ll have to test out the Cody.


(Andy Crichton) #4

Always a good habit to get into Charlie, cleaning your brushes as you go along. Not necessarily washing right out, but combing out excessive build up. In warm environments, and outside, brushes in water based paint do need more looking after.


(dave D9 decor) #5

re Cody brush
after reading Ifty’s paint and brush trial I bought myself a Cody

Tried the Cody for first time on woodwork over the weekend at home using Sikkens Rubol Satura (acrylic satin)
The brush certainly loaded well and the end result, (after one coat Zinsser cover stain and two coats Rubol) is a superb, brush free finish. I think I may have hit on my ideal combination of paint and brush for acrylic egg/satin!

note also used a 1" Purdy Sprig Elite (nice and light)for mouldings and Axus lime mini rollers for larger flat surfaces.

Dave d9 decor Bristol

and agree with Andy, one of the key things when using acrylic trim paint is a quick comb out and dampen every 20 mins or so as well as very (very!)lightly dampening the surface with clean cloth just before applying the paint.


(darlic) #6

I am glossing some doors at the moment,with a corona brush,what would be the best roller to uses on glossing doors,is there techniques i can use with a roller to get a nice finish ,i no you cant beat a brush,but its time consuming i want to be able to offer a customer choice,as a roller would be lot quicker and cheaper,this would suit a lot of people but also be able to offer top end as well.Are there any good techniques using a brush that can enhance the quality of finish.


(Andy Crichton) #7

[quote]Quote from darlic on October 21, 2013, 20:58
I am glossing some doors at the moment,with a corona brush,what would be the best roller to uses on glossing doors[/quote],

You said somewhere you are using Sikkens? High density foam sleeves tend to give best results in oil based gloss, best as in - applied evenly and with minimal orange peel.

Not wishing to sound like teacher here, but you say you aspire to be a pro doing high end work? Thinking that your clients will be impressed with fast but cheap orange peel glossed doors puts you on a hiding to nothing, ie find the extra few seconds to lay off orange peel gloss.

You can add Owatrol oil to assist with levelling of conventional oil based trade gloss.

Tikkurila Miranol is a self levelling gloss.