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Filling existing UPVC front door


(richardeddington) #1

I have been asked to paint a Upvc front door but the existing paint - not the upvc - has defects around the lock and letter plate area and the profiled beading around the glass glass. I don’t believe that rubbing down alone will remove the defects therefore any advice on filling the paint would be appreciated prior to prep and dec’s.


(Andy Crichton) #2

have you got a photo?


(richardeddington) #3

Hi Andy.

Photo’s attached


(Andy Crichton) #4

Thanks for the photos, they are worth 1000 words!

It looks to me that the paintwork is generally sound but bitty?

Where the paint has lifted on the beading, it should be completely removed back to the corners, so you have an uninterrupted length of bare uPVC beading, and no need to fill anything.

Sand the rest of the sound paintwork flat, (don’t sand through to the substrate), tack cloth it clean.

Apply a high adhesion primer on the bare area, like Otex or Mythic and when dry, you have a surface ready for your paint system of choice.

I have had a rush of questions of late about using Farrow and Ball exterior paint, it is the same message, use their primer and topcoat.

Unlike the last painter, if you remove the furniture, you will have a clear run at sanding and painting.

Does any of that help?


(darlic) #5

Well isn’t that funny I was leafleting last year and came across a street ,off houses with simpler front doors nearly all with the same problem, and quite modern houses, i noticed on some of the doors exposed to sun the upvc had bleached. If you come across this problem you could try owatrol colour restorer.

Polytrol


(richardeddington) #6

Thanks Andy and darlic for your input.
I was thinking of using Bedec MSP for the door as there has been a number of praises on TP for the product.
I have not used Bedec before so any advice would be appreciated and my inclination for this product is purely for the drying time which I feel is important when painting a front door.


(darlic) #7

Hi Andy i take it you would use the mirka wherever you could on the door and the mouldings by hand what grade abranet would you recommend,i no a street where all the doors are like it.