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Garden done for 2015, Project Kitchen Starts, Paint Advise Please


(Amateurhour64) #1

Evening all…this week I call it quits for the 2015 Garden renovation & move back to the next room project…the kitchen, & was hoping for some pointers on the paint front please.

What I have now:

  • a reasonable wall finish in a gooseberry green Matt Dulux Diamond point finish

  • a fairly poor (but relatively new) ceiling plaster finish painted in Dulux Lumitec Matt

  • Wall shelving unit & rad. cover painted in a silk Hessian Dulux paint, also not the best

What I intend to do:

  • Presonnett joint filler all walls & ceilings, already half done, rest next week

  • Oil U/C & Spachtel Kodrin the wall units & rad cover then finish with a suitable paint

  • Then paint walls/ceiling with a suitable paint

The environment:

It’s a fairly hard working kitchen rather than a show case & so hoping get not only a first class flat paint finish but also something hard wearing & ideally wipe-able

Looking for advice please on best possible paints to use on the walls / ceiling but also on the units.

Have used Matt in Motion & Eco with very happy results in three other rooms. Have no problem continuing with either of those but just keen as always to get it right first time. Not bothered about budget & have all the tools.

That said I was also wandering if the units would be better sprayed than brushed or roller-ed? Read lots of the articles on kitchen unit repainting & a bit of me would like to dip a toe but only if it’s worth it.

I have a compressor & car grade spray guns. Not entirely sure if that’s the right stuff & again very happy for advice on that.

Many thanks in advance for any help


Tikkurila Feelings Furniture paint
(darlic) #2

Hi crown extreme is good for high traffic areas,if you are going to spray walls,then when it comes to touching up you will need to use spray not roller or brush.


(Amateurhour64) #3

Hi Jason, thanks for the pointer paint wise.

No I don’t think I’ll be spraying walls or ceiling as I’m fairly confident with a brush now but the wall units I thought I might if it’s worthwhile. Not hell bent on that, is just an option if opinion is that it’s the best way to go.

The units are a good 10ft wide and probably 8ft high and with 4 shelves. Is quite a lot of landscape for brush work. Then theres a rad cover that’s maybe 8ft wide.


(Andy Crichton) #4

Hi

you seem to have nailed preparation and wall and ceiling finishes, no need to bust what isn’t broken.

On the kitchen units, after thorough preparation, if you use the likes of Otex for an adhesion base, denib with sponge pads, and finish with Helmi 30, (satin and harder finish) applied by brush and or mini roller and lay off with Royal Langnickel brush, you should achieve a good result. Check out Mark Nash videos for the way that works. Spray has many uses and advantages, but it is not required to spray topcoats for a beautiful finish using this system.


(Amateurhour64) #5

I was beginning to feel unwanted :pensive: …usually the answers flow more on TP. It’s not because I jumped the wall a short while to the ‘Gardeners World Forum’ is it? :grinning:

Ok will take a look at the videos Andy…new stuff to me, not tried any of those before but that’s half the fun of it. Will come back most likely with the usual questions after watching.

Thanks as always


(Amateurhour64) #6

Ok is clear I’ve not done this for a while…I googled ‘Otex’ and found ear drops!!!

I’m guessing you don’t mean this but the Otex adhesion primer? This is a similar product to the Zinseer Coverstain I think?

And the Helmi 30 is the tikkurila paint I’ve heard so much mention of on TP?

Cheers Andy


(Andy Crichton) #7

I hope I can say this without sounding rude! Ear drops would be handy when mentioning Otex oil based adhesion primer. Invariably “Otex” is repeated back to me as “a substitute for Coverstain then!:relaxed:

It is but it isn’t.

If painting a resinous wood I wouldn’t use Otex as a stain blocker primer if finishing with water borne paints. The topcoat is known to pull resin through the Otex!

If repainting or painting over a non-tannin surface, I wouldn’t use Coverstain. It is high adhesion, but in this instance, Otex is a superior product because of the quality of its finish which should be apparent, and advantageous, when you come to prepare it for topcoats.


(Amateurhour64) #8

…and the learning continues :grinning:

Yeah the units are MDF underneath…not the highest quality bits of work but they have a good strong build of undercoat and satin finish…it’s a rubbish finish with brush strokes galore … from before I “got skooled” at TP.

Would you say it was worth to do the Otek and then the kodrin spachtel to get it good and flat? Happy to do that as I know it works but just to check it’s the right route.

More amateur questions sorry…what’s does non-tannin mean?

You will be pleased to know that when I talk with the local brethren that I sound super skilled with the right terminology…after I robbed it from you and the guys on here :grinning:

Thanks Andy


(Martin Guest) #9

A non-tannin surface is something that is pretty inert… like mdf for instance. In theory it will not leech any oils or resins that will spoil your topcoat. Otex is a High Adhesion primer - but here is where a lot of people fall over; it isn’t a sealer. It will give a wonderfully flawless surface onto which to apply your topcoat, but, it will not seal the substrate… if you need to prime AND seal you are moving into the realms of Shellac based primers such as Zinsser B-I-N or Pegaprim Isofix; which of course bring their own sweet issues…

Hope that this helps!?

M


(Amateurhour64) #10

Martin many thanks for the advice…understand exactly what you are saying.

I’d say given the several coats the MDF has on it we should be good with the Otex. I had been using the Zinseer Cover Stain as I had been impressed in external work how it pulls and stretches flat. But if this stuff better then looking forward to giving it a try.

Many thanks for explaining that. All the best


(Amateurhour64) #11

Hi Andy…ok getting a handle on this MDF unit repaint project. About to order some Otex and Ben is supplying walls & ceilings paint.

For the Otex application I have Fox brushes…these ok to apply with or should it be the R&L ones. From what I understand those are just for the Tikkurilla paint application and laying off…or just for the laying off?

Just to check on the Helmi 30…that is the Tikkurilla paint I think but what type is the right one…can see 2 or 3 types mentioned but a bit unsure. I guess it’s the water bourne one? Intend using a satin finish.

Also does Helmi mean something or just a trade name?

Apologies more questions you have probably been asked a thousand times but still a little new turf for me.

The videos sent are very interesting and think I’m ready to go. Now to dig out my garden spray unit :grinning:


(Amateurhour64) #12

Hi Martin, just a quick follow up if that’s ok

Just to check, do you think it’s worth going to the trouble of having the Otex tinted? The unit colour is what Dulux call Natural Hessian…a sort of light cream/magnolia cross over. Is it worth the time having it tinted you think?

Many thanks


(Andy Crichton) #13

The Foxes will apply Otex well, and the R+L is a reliable brush of choice for the gentle touch if laying off water-borne finish paints that you apply by roller.

Helmi waterborne paint by Tikkurila. 10 = 10% sheen, 30 = 30% sheen (more like a satin) and they do a high gloss, which incidentally doesn’t require an undercoat on previously oil painted surfaces.

Get rubbing down now :slight_smile:


(Amateurhour64) #14

Super stuff, cheers Andy, got it now…apols for what must seem obvious stuff…is to me now as well.

Is good, don’t mind buying new brushes but don’t want my recent investments becoming shelf-ware.

As for the rubbing down, I’m trying to find as many mop up jobs and running around as poss to put that moment off…however it’s imminent :grinning:


(Amateurhour64) #15

Sorry Andy … one more…the Tikkurila point…what is the difference pros/cons between the Helmi and the Feelings types…have been reading the extracts on the Holmans site but is not jumping out at me. Going to order as you advise anyway but just curious. Cheers


(Martin Guest) #16

It depends upon your level of OCD… Me; very - I always get my OTEX tinted. It starts building the depth of colour from the first coat. Also, if it ever scratches, then, it will scratch through to exactly the same colour. In my mind lots of benefits for taking a little trouble.

Good luck!


(Martin Guest) #17

Helmi and Feelings are the same product… don’t know if its a “Retail”, “Trade” thing???

: )


(Amateurhour64) #18

…right well I’m not being outdone in the OCD stakes!!! … you might have the pedigree and track record but I have ambition :grinning:

No take your point, and I have the option. We are installing a new cooker so the units will be colour matched to that and then the undercoat matched to the top coat.

Tinted it is


(Amateurhour64) #19

…is a complicated game this decorating :grinning:

Yes the description looked the same but they seemed to have different labels…that simplifies things

Thanks for pointing out Martin.


(Amateurhour64) #20

Just curious but looked at all the videos that Andy sent me of Mark Nash’s work. Link below…

Has anyone used the technique he shows utilising the garden sprayer? Think I’m going to give it a crack but just wandered if anyone had done, how easy it was and if the result is as tangible as I hope it is.

Btw, that’s not to second guess Mark’s work…just curious as to real world experience. One of the down sides of being an amateur is that you tend to Q&A the life out of stuff before jumping in the pool.

Thanks all