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Over-filling spongey filler


(Holty) #1

Hello chaps,
I thought I’d already posted this but looks like I messed up somewhere! So, I’ve been asked to quote to decorate a kitchen (ceiling and walls not furniture). The ceiling is the main area for my query. The down lighters have been moved and the old holes filled by the electrician. Apparently done 2 or three months ago now but when I had a feel of the filler it was soft and spongey and I could press my finger nails into it and leave marks. I think it might that light weight filler like Red Devil or something. So wanted to ask the best way go about giving this lady a perfect ceiling. Scrape back filler, prime, re-fill then emulsion?
Cheers,
Lee
.


(darlic) #2

Touprett tx110 is a good filler, you could use bullseye 123 then emulsion.cheers


(Holty) #3

Cheers mate. I think I’ve got all that on board.


(darlic) #4

Something I do if it looks like a cheap paint is gardz the ceiling, roller glides over nicely ,use microfiber have a test area with it takes a bit of getting used to.


(Andy Crichton) #5

I think you got your answer. If it has already been filled and painted, however poorly, in this sort of scenario, there is no reason for priming to assist with the adhesion of the filler.

If evening out the surface porosity with Gardz, apply it to the whole area, not just patches, else you will probably see how good Gardz is!


(Holty) #6

Cool, thanks chaps. Andy, I haven’t heard of ‘evening out the porosity’ of a surface before could you explain this and the role that Gardz plays in this instance? Thanks again. Lee.


(Andy Crichton) #7

When you have different surfaces with varying rates of absorption, the first coat of paint may well dry unevenly and you will see patches of light and dark. That isn’t necessarily a problem on a 2-coat system, as long as the dried surface of the first coat is equally (non)-porous.

If you are expecting a first coat of emulsion paint to dry at different rates and leave a desired non-absorbent coat ready for the top coat, you might be disappointed. Some areas will dry out to a non-porous surface (ideal) others will still be porous (not ideal) As long as the porosity is uneven you may well keep applying paint, and keep applying paint to lose the patchiness… I have seen 7 coats of Sikkens emulsion (“very good paint”) still dry patchy.

Gardz and primer sealers like Beeline or olde worlde oil based primer sealer are formulated for inconsistent surfaces to penetrate, bind and provide a desirable even moisture-resistant base for subsequent coats.

The full story on Gardz is not surprisingly from Jack Pauhl . how did he do those huge taped plasterboard ceilings so quick and well!

A fit and forget / a piece de resistance on ceilings spec is 2 coats of Classidur paints. That will do what Gardz plus ceiling paint can, with the added bonus of leaving a beautiful matt white finish.

The above 7 coat painter to the Manchester footballer stars could have stopped at coat 2, reviewed the situation and stomped up for the cost of Classidur or Gardz. But they seemed determined to keep going, and in the end enjoyed telling me the 7th time, look it is still patchy, oh well, they can’t say I didn’t try.