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Painting around light switches and fittings


(richardeddington) #1

I am having trouble matching finish around light switches/wall fittings. I have to brush finish around switches etc which gives a different texture to that of a rollered wall. I normally use a Wooster Pro-Dooz 10mm roller.
The trouble with the switch plates is that very often they are banked close together with about 25mm between the plates - sometimes more sometimes less - and you don’t normally have enough slack on the wiring to pull the switch plate out far enough to get the roller behind. Note I always release the switch plates to paint behind, much neater. The same issue applies to fixed wall/ceiling fittings.

I would appreciate some advice.

Many Thanks


(Andy Crichton) #2

Have you used the Jumbo Koter 4.5" mini roller with the same spec pro dooz sleeve as your main roller? That would get in tight with more control.


(richardeddington) #3

Thank you Andy. I will take your advice. - Another order for MPB. On another matter regarding roller sleeves would I - should I – use a
tighter nap on my rollers to get a smoother finish to try to eliminate the
‘orange peel effect’ Would a 6mm nap give me a flatter finish and what are the
implications if any. presumably the roller would not hold as much paint hence


(Andy Crichton) #4

If you are talking about sheeny paint on smooth plaster walls, you are right that the shorter pile leaves less orange peel than a longer pile. A potential downside is the time to roll.

What you can do if time is of the essence, is apply the paint with a longer pile and follow immediately behind with the short pile, to lay off finer.

I would say the short-ish pile 3/8 pro doz applies plenty enough paint on your standard UK plastered wall, even though it would be less paint than a 1/2"

You will get different texture results depending on paint choice of course. i.e. Finish is dependent on the quality of the paint re levelling (Mythic will lay flatter than most standard vinyl matt emulsions) Adding a conditioner could give you much improved results on bog standard product.

And the surface. On an absorbent textured surface, adjust the length of the pile up. So you could first coat on new plaster with a long pile sleeve and the paint would absorb leaving little to no texture, and use the really short nap on the topcoat.

I suppose there is no blanket answer, but there are some options to try to get the best result for the paint and surface you are presented with.


(richardeddington) #5

Thanks Andy
Plenty to take in here then!
I do prefer to use a Flat Matt emulsion on walls and ceilings - Hides the background defects better.
And I always use Trade quality paints or better.
Again Many Thanks


(Steve Waterhouse) #6

have you tried stippling with a 1" brush around the switches and fittings it blends the line between brush and roller


(richardeddington) #7

This really is - ‘out of the box thinking’ - great idea. I will be applying this method this week.
Thanks a Lot.