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Primer options


(dazco) #1

What options do I have for primers to go over some knotty pine doors that were waxed but stripped with Fluxaf pro, is there water based primers or does it have to be a solvent based specialist primer?


(Martin Guest) #2

Firstly, as you have mentioned, it is vital to remove all traces of the wax - so good move with the Fluxaf! In order to seal the resins that are inherent in pine, I always use a shellac based sealer primer; in my case I use Pegaprim Isofix tinted to the topcoat colour… it is very similar to Zinsser BIN, so I guess you could go that route.

I prefer to give a number of coats to completely seal (not just a mist coat)… as I see it, wood - under a microscope - is like a bundle of straws; it is vital that the ends of each of these “straws” are sealed in order to stop any leeching of resin and future discolouration of topcoats.

Hope that this helps (bit longer than my Twitter answer! ha!)

Have a great weekend mate!


(dazco) #3

I tend to have a bit of trouble with shellac primers in that the brush goes hard before I get time to finish! sadly I do not have a sprayer so roller and brush is my only method of application. Is it possible to thin a shellac primer to give me a longer wet edge and brush ?


(Martin Guest) #4

I apply with brush and roller too… yes, I thin down with meths - this helps with wet edge and “orange-peeling” - 320g between coats… you can’t go wrong!

Tip: I cut the top off a small plastic bottle and put meths in it - use this to keep your brush in when using the roller… the brush will not harden!


(dazco) #5

Your a legend Martin thank you :smile:


#6

Like Martin, I always use Shellac primers on pine ( and Oak )

I tend to used Zinsser more so than Isofix, but thats down to getting it very cheap from a local chap.

To extend the work time a tad, i also wipe down the surface with a damp meth cloth as I go, just gives a little extra time.

One other primer i have been told about (but not yet used on Pine) is Classidur Universal Xtrem, now the rep at the P&D show said it was OK to use over pine and would hold back the knots, but like I said, I haven’t used it myself so can’t comment on it, but I know lots of people love it.

Cheers

Neil


(dazco) #7

For me my main issue is that these are internal doors, I can not remove them so they have to be done on site. There is kids present so if there is a low smelling option that might be useful :wink:


(greenpainting) #8

I’ve used a Ronseal knot blocker before - seems to work but as Martin says, you’ve got to give it a couple of good coats. If you have the budget F&B do a resin blocking primer although I’ve never tried it and it’s quite pricey but it’s not shellac so might be kinder to brushes than BIN.


(dazco) #9

Would Classidur universal primer xtreme be an option in this situation, after sealing knots?


(Martin Guest) #10

I guess it’s a possibility…, if you need to take the water-based route - here is the tech sheet for it:

or on the Traditional Painter site:

Shellac is my proven choice, I don’t have experience with this Classidur product, so am not personally going to recommend it to you… I know from years of using the shellac based products within my system, that it works, and works well.


(dazco) #11

Once the doors have been de waxed with Fluxaf pro I should be down to a bare pine wood door with knots or could there still be a chance of wax deposits that could re act with paint?


(Martin Guest) #12

Here’s what I now do with kitchens - so it should translate to your doors:

If the substrate is exceptionally waxy, I spray neat or 1:1 with Fluxaf Pro Clean - leave for 10 -15mins, then spray with warm (not hot) water - this helps to activate the product further, then after a further 10 - 15 mins spray with clean and wipe down… this will neutralise the product (Willem at Fluxaf recommended this). you may notice that the substrate may change colour a little (becomes dry), also if there are any wax deposits remaining, you will notice that they will have changed “feel/state” (no longer greasy, but now, almost like a thick dust). Following this (and this really is belt and braces); allow the wet substrate to dry out (depends upon ambient conditions - could be overnight), I then wipe down with Methylated Spirit… This has two reasons; 1. Removes any last vestiges of grease 2. Soaks into the substrate - as I recommend a Shellac, which thins with Meths, this will aid in the paint “soaking” in to the substrate, which in the long run will benefit the finish and it’s longevity…

…All of your troubles should be over.

Long answer, apologies…


(dazco) #13

Seeing as this will be the first time I have had to de wax doors and paint them I really appreciate you taking the time Martin, to write such a detailed answer. Thank you :slight_smile:


(dazco) #14

After following Martins advice here is a before and after of one of the waxed internal pine doors, finished in the Dulux quick dry undercoat and Gloss. Thank you Martin :slight_smile:


(Martin Guest) #15

Looks great mate!.. pleased that my suggestions worked for you - always happy to help.

MJG


(darlic) #16

Dulux quick dry undercoat and gloss ,I take it has good track record no going yellow, must say nice finish, well done.


(darlic) #17

Hi doses any one use stix bonding primer is it worth paying the extra cost?whats so specail about this product.


(darlic) #18

Hi folks need a good high build primer sealer,any recomendations?


(darlic) #19

Hi folks looking for some recommendations, on primer/undercoats,that will give longer working times
when applying topcoats, to help avoid brush marks.


(tehomas ) #20

why not try the benjamin moore system stix , fresh start,advance,scufx,aura
https://benjaminmoorepaint.co.uk/products/