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Technique for using Elafib scrim


(darlic) #1

I have been doing some scrim work ,and seeing the benefits, but still have a few teething problems, like when you paint the emulsion on to stick the scrim to, sometimes the edges have lifted the next morning

Also when i have sanded, I think i have been a bit too heavy handed, and caught the scrim lightly. This stuff’s very thin. What grade abrasive do you recommend using.? Any help will be grateful.

Last but least when i apply the emulsion i have learned not to cover the area, not much more than the width of scrim,otherwise you loose track of where the crack was, but the walls i have done must say very happy, it takes a bit off getting used to.


Problem using Elafib scrim
(Andy Crichton) #2

You just have to have a liberal bed of paint and lay the scrim in the paint and brush it in and apply more paint till the gauze is full. That can’t go anywhere, at least not in my experience. 180 or 240 grade is fine enough for denibbing.


(darlic) #3

Right job nearly done with the scrim i skimmed with fine surface filler,when it came to sanding nearly all went well used electric sander,when i Finnish i noticed in a few areas the sander had slighty abraded the scrim,

i have now filled with touprett fine surface filler the rest looks good.

I used axus continental blades amazing my filling blade keeps rusting why? Is the lesson here dont use a sander,or be carful next time with it. I have two other areas to do so get 2,3,chance to get perfection. :slight_smile:


(darlic) #4

valuable feedback appreciated,guys.


(Andy Crichton) #5

Nothing wrong with power sanding, just use a fine grade 240 or less and take it steady. Touching up where necessary, it is called “being picky”.

Steel rusts unless it is kept away from moisture?


(darlic) #6

Well pleased,looking really good,and them axus continental filling blades another world,thanks for your help.


(darlic) #7

Quick question is the scrim steel particles,or are you referring to sandpaper you lost me.I have a hamilton blade noticed it keeps rusting,i use wire wall to clean it.


(darlic) #8

I have had a couple off goes now,on scrim,when comes to sanding i seem to catch the materiel leaving bits off fabric lifted,i use course on filler then fine sandpaper,is this the problem with me being slightly heavy handed,would it be best just to use 240 or below,otherwise everything went well scrim nice and easy to use,when i painted unless you looked very close you wouldn’t have noticed,but that’s not good enough for me,hope someone can help.


(pd67) #9

Maybe apply a bit more filler in the first place, just a suggestion


(darlic) #10

Well put the scrim on wall took some getting use to, think i could do better next time. It is overlapping on ceiling but not half way, had room length to do but quiet happy,

i used emulsion paint, problem i have is small part of the plaster is bare, where i had to strip paint because it was cracking otherwise known as crazing paint, i painted with emulsion then stuck scrim on. Its dried well, on the same wall there been quiet a bit of fine surface filling where i go around with a pencil marking imperfections, then fill with touprett fine surface filler.

Would it be wise to paint that wall with bulls eye once skimed over scrim,to seal everything.

Next time the small patch of bare plaster would have it been wise to spot prime with bulls eye first then allow to dry then put emulsion on or have i done it right, al in all pleased. :slight_smile:


(darlic) #11

Had another problem ,trying to fill corner of wall edge is there a technique to this,to get it right.Please look at above article,keep pressing on.


(Andy Crichton) #12

I find the scrim works if you place the first couple of inches gently into the paint with your fingertips, then smooth that first bit with a filling knife. Now it won’t slide, so you can unwind it gently off the roll and treat it like it is going to crease at any second.

If the crack isn’t dead straight, you should be able to develop a gradual bend without too much trouble. The second it creases though, with too much of a bend! pull it back to the start of the crease, trim with scissors, and start with a new piece repeat - bed first couple of inches in wet paint, flatten with filling knife and carry on.

The idea is to use a coat of Bullseye to provide a superior base for topcoats of emulsion. I seem to recall you have already painted out the walls in Bullseye, but now with the retro repairs to the crazed paint etc, you have a judgement call

Either spot in the patch filling with bullseye, which will leave you with a nice overall “bullseye surface” to apply finish coats too, or if there is a lot of filing to touch in, give the whole wall a light sand and paint the whole wall with Bullseye. Then 2 x emulsion, denibbing between coats.

If you apply acrylic emulsion on normal bare plaster, or with areas filled with Toupret fillers, you wont have flashing to worry about, so dont defaut to Bullseye as a spot primer. At worst for belt and braces, have a mini roller with a sleeve the same texture as your main roller and spot roll the emulsion over any fine surface filler ahead of painting the wall. Literally spot roll a wall then drop back and start the first coat straightaway. But really, as an idea of coverage, 2 coats of an acrylic emulsion in light and medium bases have enough opacity to take bare plaster to a finish.


(darlic) #13

Right job nearly done with the scrim i skimmed with fine surface filler,when it came to sanding nearly all went well used electric sander,when i Finnish i noticed in a few areas the sander had slighty abraded the scrim,

i have now filled with touprett fine surface filler the rest looks good.