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Trim work tips


(Holty) #1

Hello everybody,
I have paint a clients architraves and skirtings and could use a few pointers.

  1. Which degreaser? - I have run out of KrudKutter so was thinking about trying Gloss off for this next job.
  2. Brushes - I usually use a 2" Corona or Purdy for my trim but always find doing the edge of the architraves a pain as the bristles always split and either hit the wall or mess up the face of the architrave. I was thinking about getting a small fitch or sash to help and have two brushes on the go?
  3. The client is painting the walls after me. So it looks like my cutting in will be in line for some scrutiny as it won’t be me covering any dodgy cuts with the emulsion. Is taping the walls going to help? Are there any particular technique tips to help me here? The skirtings are 2" chamfered/pencil round so tricky to plant a brush nicely onto it.
  4. We are using Dulux wb satinwood. Anything to look out for during application? I used some wb satin weathershield recently with lovely results.
    Many thanks!

(darlic) #2

Hi for degreaser, I am using cif green bottle,as for brush’s for cutting in
Proform Picasso brush’s are very good.


(Holty) #3

Thanks Jason. So ‘Cif’ as in the stuff they used to 'Jif"?
I do have a 2.5" Picasso that I use cutting my emulsion but what about on the thin edges of architraves?


(Zen) #4

Hi holty,
the below might be of interest to you,

Thanks Dave, very helpful advice, i to am mainly working residential property but for the last few years have taken an approach on trim that already puts me half way there with the masking; as i use waterbased sytem for trim i bosh it in as you would to wwallpaper, going over onto the wall. I then tape up the trim and finish walls last, leaving lines that i would be hard pressed to achieve cutting in after. The occasional bleed is touched in with a royal langnikel artist brush, jobs a good en. Consequently i am more efficient with masking now, the floors i am already laying carpet protector and lining paoer on hard floors so i cant see too much extra time to spray above my usual.


(Holty) #5

Thanks Zen.
I had thought of doing it this way but hadn’t run it by anyone yet! I have a question though. Will my wb satinwood that goes over onto the wall be visible from under the emulsion? Also, my client is going to be doing the walls so this will look quite messy when I’m finished as it won’t be ‘cut in’ in the conventional manner.
Many thanks.


(Zen) #6

So the walls need be painted as normal with two coats well applied it will cover your wb satin. It complicates things a little cos you arent seeing it through till the end. Maybe youcould do the masking? Make sure the paint has cured pretty well and use low tack, i like clean edge but it cant stay on too long, a couple oof days tops, care must be taken in application and removal.


(Rob Dineen) #7

Use Virosol to degrease now instead of KK. I like the Wooster peintpro sash brushes.Ur gonna need to cut in to the wall like u were finishing it or it will bleed through. Just remember it’s not a professonal coming behind you so the cutting in is going to be dodgy regardless… Keep the satinwood nice and tight. Corona archers are my go to in wb trim paints.Try using the 1" 1/2 instead of the 2" .


(Holty) #8

Thanks chaps. Decided to cut it in so that it looks nice when I leave. Rob - I’ve got a 1.5" Corona Archer in the box so will give that a go. Zen - Haven’t used tape for cutting before so I might do some experimenting!
Cheers.


(greenpainting) #9

Don’t fall into the trap of thinking smaller brushes are better for smaller areas. For most trim I am using a 2.5" angled Blaze and I’ll use that to paint the trim sides at the same time. It has a wonderful chiselled tip so the end of the brush isn’t too heavy with paint when you use it side on for the narrow edges. Because you are working with a wide brush it’s much easier to control when you paint along an edge as there’s more brush in contact with the surface.


(greenpainting) #10

Oh and if your client is painting the walls and worries the edges won’t be straight, offer to go back when he’s finished and put a line of caulk down the trim at the wall edge. At least that’s going to give a nice line for him.


(Holty) #11

Thanks Andy.
I’ve seen/heard about that angled Blaze brush - I will try one out on the next job. With regards to going back and putting a line of caulk down the trim - would you paint it as well or just let the caulk cover up their untidy cutting in?
Lee.


(greenpainting) #12

If you’re painting white trim a line of caulk on it’s own should be ok if you’ve painted eggshell or satin. If you’re using gloss the caulk might stand out a bit in which case a coat of paint would look better.

It think for trim, the Blaze is the best brush out there at the moment. My only criticism is it does seem to loose shape more than most so you need to be gentle with cleaning. So far it’s a fair trade off considering the excellent performance and finish you get from the beastie.