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Using Elafib scrim


(darlic) #1

Preparing room to paint,at the top just under ceiling,i have cracks ,also,in corner of wall have a crack,the last time i used caulk but that was seven years ago what is the most professional way to put right.I have toupret,red devil,caulk,shall i dig out then use a dusting brush then fill,then put tape over it,or just use the caulk,being a corner it will be difficult to fill.What would be the best filler for this situation,and techniques.Is everyone taking well deserved break.


(darlic) #2

Andy can you give us your advice.


(Andy Crichton) #3

This is the definitive way to solve cracks - bed Elafib scrim in vinyl matt emulsion, when dry, skim lightly with Toupret TX110, feather out edges, remove all dust, ready to overpaint

Back from trip to the National Painting and Decorating Show, so sort of a holiday :slight_smile:


(darlic) #4

Thanks andy do you have any tips to share.


(darlic) #5

Help Andy,right i have gouged out cracks along ceiling,down edge of wall,the plaster was very uneven so i gouged back so when the scrim gos on the wall will be level,but this has left me gap along wall edge and along ceiling,i have dusted to remove dust,in this situation would it be best to fill with touprett,then when dry put vinly emulsion on then place tape over the filler with touprett recomened fine surface filler,and what size scrim how will i no which size to get.I am looking to acheive really nice finish hopefully it will work.


(Andy Crichton) #6

if you bed half the scrim on the wall and lap the other half on to the ceiling you have solved the problem of cracking. I think that is what you are driving at. The scrim is in one width as far as I know anyway, but different length rolls


(darlic) #7

Thanks andy but do i need to fill the gap i have gouged out,also will the scrim show when i have painted walls.The other question i had crazing paint just below ceiling,i have scraped off,to plaster i will spot with bulls eye,that should do the trick,what causes crazing for matter off interest.


(Andy Crichton) #8

[quote]Quote from darlic on November 25, 2013, 13:24
Thanks andy but do i need to fill the gap i have gouged out,[/quote]

You can do, but make sure you leave a straight line at the join, as the tape will follow the profile you create.

It better not! This scrim is not much thicker than a coat of paint, it fills and feathers out very very easily.

Could be vinyl matt or contract matt painted over caulk. The surface tension difference between the caulk and the paint, made the paint craze. It is a common error, minimised if you use high acrylic content emulsions. Im not the only one who has spotted that the sellers of vinyl matt and contract paint and caulk companies are clueless about resolving this issue. I dont think they can, without introducing a 3rd product like spot priming the caulk with oil undercoat before emulsioning.

Repair Care users seem to have no issue with crazing, that is not exactly a cheap option though compared to painters mate type caulks.

Seriously, if you stick to premium emulsions you wont see a fraction of the issues that get repeated and repeated on forums.

Or it could have been paste left behind?


(darlic) #9

Now run into another problem theres crazing round edge off window frame,and on other side where i used caulk and cheap contract emulsion theres cracking but not bad like the other side how do i deal with it.You were so right about caulk and cheap BQ contract emulsion i have learned that one,also could you give me a opinion of tikkurla,is it worth paying for or is there anything cheaper but of same quality,on market,yes i did read mark Nash article,but second opinion is always very nice.Keep up your excellent site it dosent stop improving,love it.


(darlic) #10

Could i use a heat-gun to remove crazing paint Andy,please read above what i have written as well,thanks for all your help.And the other question the ceiling is artex will the scrim stick to that.


(Andy Crichton) #11

Like I said above " spot priming the caulk with oil undercoat before emulsioning." will usually overcome the surface tension issues of caulk if you are using cheapo emulsion over it. Can you see where using good kit in the first place saves you time and money?

You pay top dollar for Tikkurila paints for a good reason. Where Tikkurila is concerned, if an alternative is cheaper, the paint won’t be the same quality. It is one of the brands that is top spec and is outstanding pretty much across the range. There are many brands where a cheaper alternative might be better, but not in this case.

An example of a paint that is cheaper than for example Dulux vinyl matts and seems to perform much better is Manor Coatings. Their oil based eggshell is old fashioned too and works well. They look a good bet for good quality decorating on a reasonable budget and you are not paying for marketing a dog. That is why it is cheaper. And why is it better? because they havent adulterated the product like Dulux have over the years.

Elafib scrim beds in vinyl matt. Vinyl matt will work fine on unpainted artex, and wouldn’t envisage any adhesion problem over most clean painted surfaces. I dont suppose the ceiling is glossed, please not! Even with artexing there were certain standards and one of those was running a 1" brush line around the edge. You can make sure the scrim beds into that line and then fernagle the filling with a wet brush to recreate that lovely brushmark artex line and make the tape disappear.

Heat gun on caulk around a window? I wouldn’t. If you have to, cut the caulk out and start again.


(darlic) #12

Andy sorry got confused ,can i use a heat gun to remove crazing paint,at a distance safely,Thanks for your time.


(Andy Crichton) #13

I would cut out the caulk with a knife and re-do it. Heat gun would be messy, I suspect