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Want to give Dulux Diamond Satin a try


(DavidJ) #1

I’ve decided to give this stuff a try because fumes from oil are getting silly. I have ordered a Proform Picasso, as recommended by someone on TP (thanks!), but I just have a few questions:

  1. Is it really necessary to wet flat previous oil paint? I’ve never done this, have read it’s messy, and usually use foam sanding pads for panelled doors and moulded skirting. Does anyone have a good and tried method for wet flatting?

  2. I think Andy mentioned part-cleaning brushes when using water-based paints. Could someone be more specific? Does this mean washing out every half hour or so, and use of a comb? Is a complete rinse-out necessary? How does this work?

  3. Anything else I might need to know, maybe a roller recommendation?

While I’m asking about water-based, I do have a job coming up where the customer wants gloss, but I’d like to use water-based. Any recommendations? It’s a hall, stairs and landing and I only want to do two coats. Doesn’t need to be perfect, as customer “just wants it painting”. No, not a rental! Wondering if anyone had used Dulux Ecosure recently? I remember using their Aquatech Gloss years ago and it wasn’t great.

Any help/advice greatly appreciated.


(RJ Taylor Decoration Ltd) #2

It’s not necessary to wet flat existing oil paint with Diamond Satinwood. Just dull the surface slightly with 180, or finer, abrasive. I like the Oakey ‘Between Coats’ grey. It’s one of the few water based products that doesn’t need to be primed when using like this. The paint covers very well for acrylic and 2 coats is usually all that’s required when painting over white with PBW.

The PBW is the only colour to benefit from Dulux’s new formula (or it was the last time I checked) and the tints are still the older formulation. The application of the PBW is much better than the tints. Check the tins as the new formulation is marked on the right of the logo.

Wash the brush out completely at least every hour, but usually as it needs it. Once paint is drying on the bristles you will get brushmarks. Wash out with plain, warm water or a little washing up liquid as required.

The Picasso is a great choice for this product and it would be the one I would go for. Use the largest brush you can for the job as it gets the paint on faster.

Get some flow additive, either Floetrol or XIM, and add as required. They do help the paint apply easier. Once you have added Floetrol it is in there and you won’t need more. XIM is different and its benefits deminish throughout the day. You will need to add more the following day without doubt. I prefer XIM but they both work well.

For rolling I would go for a Wooster Micro Plush, best cover by a mile for me with acrylic paint.

I’m not a fan of wetting the work with a sponge prior to painting as you can sponge bits on the surface. But it works well on window sills and is worth trying. Just keep the sponge clean. Also use a decorators sponge and not a cheap one as that will just dump pools of water on the surface.

I’ve heard good reports about the new formula Ecosure Gloss but haven’t tried it. Ecosure Undercoat goes on and covers well but won’t stick to oil painted surfaces. I would use Diamond Satinwood as your undercoat with Ecosure Gloss.


(DavidJ) #3

Ron, thank you very much for your advice.

I’d just last week started an eight-door hallway, and dithered on water-based because the Picasso I ordered hadn’t turned up. Instead I used Johnstone’s satin with Owatrol and a Purdy, which worked very well, but really smelled in such a confined space.

My Picasso turned up this weekend, and now I’m tempted to try maybe the front door in Diamond, assuming the sheen levels won’t be so dissimilar as to draw the eye.

It’s interesting that you use 180 or finer for sanding; I’ve always thought that rougher paper was better and created more of a key. I will have to try some.

If I do use the Diamond I’ll let you know how I get on. Thanks again.


(dave D9 decor) #4

Can i suggest might be best to use Dulux Weathershield QD Satin for front door rather than Diamond Satinwood which is recommended for interior use?


(DavidJ) #5

If I were painting the outside, you certainly could :wink:

To report back, I found the Picasso Proform made me feel like learning to paint all over again, very floppy bristles. Perhaps I shouldn’t have bought an angled brush, odd that you can only use it in one direction when it’s vertical. But then I used it for a narrow door frame, so at 2.5" it was probably too big.

DDS went on nicely with Floetrol. I switched to a smaller Purdy Monarch Elite for the door and found I could pretty much ladle it on safely and it would dry to a nice finish. After two coats on a fairly yellow door I still think it will need another to really go. Very interesting though, will def be using again.