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Which exterior coating?


(Holty) #1

Hello chaps,
I have been asked to price up a couple of jobs and I’m looking for some advice regarding what to use to paint the woodwork. The first one looks like woodstain to me but a couple of people said it looks like paint. The bloke in Brewers said that too and suggested Superdec. I’ve heard that it’s a good product but as I’m not 100% sure what I’m going on to will the Superdec be a good choice?
The other job is the exterior woodwork in white. Much more straight forward I think. It looks pretty white everywhere but it’s seems quite dull and is hard to tell if it was gloss or satin. Any tips on how to proceed?
Cheers,
Lee.
PS I didn’t take the photos with this post in mind so they might not be as helpful as they could be.



(dave D9 decor) #2

Hi Lee

my system would be:

  • Thorough scrape back/burn off flaking paint, fill and sand back
  • Spot prime knots with BIN or knotting
  • 1 x fullcoat Cover Stain (2 hour recoat time)
  • 2 x topcoats Zinsser All Coat Exterior (1 hour recoat time)
    is the third pic (brown)of a door step? I’d sand back to bare wood then oil

(Holty) #3

Hello Dave,
This system is for the house with the white woodwork I take it? And yes, that is a picture of a door step, got about 4 to do there. Those re-coat times are good aren’t they? So, what would your choice of oil and filler be?
Also, what do you think about the coatings for the other job, with the brown ‘stained’ woodwork?
Cheers,
Lee.


(dave D9 decor) #4

Yes the Zinsser system works well for same day turn around - we use it on our Sash window refurb jobs: thorough prep, and a full coat of Cover Stain as primer/undercoat

For unpainted exterior wood I use oil rather than varnish - which tends to crack and blister in direct sun - I’ve used Osmo UV exterior with good long term results including one job on wooden (unpainted) casement windows.

I don’t have any experience of the brown stained woodwork sorry!


(Holty) #5

What filler do you use on exteriors Dave?


(dave D9 decor) #6

The only exterior work I do now are sash windows - post refurb - where we remove them, prep and paint as component parts then reassemble.

If its small fills then I use standard 2 part (Tetrion 2PK, Ronseal etc)
For fills above say 20mm I use Repair Care or Metolux. For sash windows we use Repair Care on construction joints as it not only fills but binds the two pieces of wood together forming a watertight seal (Pics of some repairs I did are on the Repair Care website)

Toupret Fibracryl in tube is superb filler too for wood to masonry joins

For fine surface finishing Toupret blue tub Fine Surface Filler


(Holty) #7

Cool. Nice few pointers there mate, thanks. Have priced up that job using the Allcoat that you suggested. Was thinking about the Prestonnet Gras a Lacquer or the Sikkens Kodrin for the outside filling. Going to look at the repair care site now.
Cheers Dave.


(darlic) #8

Like your paint system how doses the metolux filler sand is it easy?


(dave D9 decor) #9

Metolux and Repair Care resins don’t sand particularly easily - they need careful application to ‘get it right first time’

(Repair Care do a one day course which I think is essential)

Once set, then scrape back the surface film with a carbide blade and then 120/180 abrasive.


(darlic) #10

Hi folks got some wooden windows to paint next year when the whether better,have any of you tried extreme wood filler
by touprett and toupretts wood hardner ?many thanks jason


(darlic) #11

Waiting for window to dry given it a brush with owatrol,that should drive remanding moisture out,clean hinges with sander then wipe over with owatrol to stop rusting.Need recommendations for good wood harder?Used my blade to remove old gloss from glass ,and fluxaf to remove old sealant from brickwork,any recomendations on reasonable price exteror,
undercoat gloss?cheers


(dave D9 decor) #12

wood hardener…? No! thats a cheap fix and I wouldn’t put my name to such a technique!

I recommend to follow the Repair Care System of prep work.

Remove the rot or decayed timber until you’re back to solid, hard, timber, (the analogy is do as a dentist would and drill out all the decay before filling) then apply your filler or combine part filling with sound timber offcuts


(tehomas ) #13

hi guys a few things in the posts i have noticed are bad practices and will most probably lead to paint system failure therefor not good advice to give to people wanting to do the job right …
no 1 2 part fillers should not be used on exterior work as they are to brittle and have no flex with the seasons and will ultimately fail.
no 2 bin white shellac also suffers from the same problem too brittle no flex and is not ideal for exteriors. specs say ok for spot priming not large primed areas
no 3 stay within the manufacturers specifications from start to finish with the system
otherwise you have no guarantee with there products .
no 4 toupret fine surface filler is only specked for interior use not exterior

. i know its very tempting to try to get things done quickly but will cost the client and decorators reputation in the long run imho teho


(darlic) #14

Thanks folks wasnt intending to use ordinary two pack,new i would only get a year out of it before
it failed looking at toupret extreme wood filler,which is two part,but if you cant trust toupret who can you trust?


(darlic) #15

What undercoat/gloss would you use dave was thinking sadoline superdec?


(darlic) #16

What undercoat /gloss system would you use teho?


(tehomas ) #17

nothing wrong with supadeck darlic.
product would depend on budget


(darlic) #18

M lads been busy cleaning up the hinges,cant do anything else with windows damp reading
coming up 19,where 14 is the sweet spot,so will have to leave for a few more weeks?any tips