TP Home | About | Newsletter | Blogs |

Acrylic Hybrid Paints

I’m not a big fan of acrylic hybrid paints. They seem to offer a lot but in reality have a lot of drawbacks.

Manufacturers say that they offer a near oil like finish, which is partly true. But nowhere on the can will it say ‘no yellowing’ because light colours, especially white, will discolour over time. It will be less noticable than pure oil paint. But put a hybrid gloss in a room with little or no natural light and it will go magnolia over time. I know, I’ve done it.

Also, due to the oil content, brushes won’t wash out completely with water and detergent. When you open a new can the paint will flow well and wash from brushes. But the more air that gets into the can seems to change the product slightly and after a while that same paint will become sticky and not flow well, It will also become a nightmare to wash from brushes, and after washing with water and detergent you may need to rinse with white spirit.

They also seem totally unsutable for spray application. Careless use with an airless will see them run like crazy. And spraying with hvlp will cause the oil and acrylic to separate and give an uneven and spotty finish. I know I’m being harsh here as manufacturers of these products invariably don’t recommend spray application due to the oil content. But it’s something else that steers me away from them.

I much prefer to use pure acrylic paints for trim as I know where I stand with them.

I’ve used Superdec fairly often on exteriors for a few years now, it’s great paint but stronger colours tend to sun bleach a little quicker than oils in a similar colour.
Superdec white on clapperboarded houses is a delight to use and look at when finished.

1 Like

Ron which pure acrylics for trim would you recommend
I take it the Mylands is hybrid given the challenge of washing the brushes! wonderful paint though - thank you again for recommendation

I’d like to have a reliable pure acrylic on board too

Has a pure Acrylic system been established yet for trims etc?

Looking back at my post above, dated 27/7/12, Ive changed my opinion of hybrids in the past year or so.

Since finding Mylands I’ve found the new hybrid products offer better opacity and adhesion than most pure acrylic products. I used pure acrylic products for many years on trim but do find myself using hybrids more and more now. I even think the new Dulux QD Gloss and Satinwood are types of hybrid and are meant to be very good.
Due to a problem with Johnstone’s last year I refuse to use their products now. But I have heard it on good authority that the Aqua Satin is a very good product.I have previously used the Aqua Gloss and it does leave a very oil like finish.

Most hybrids I’ve tried don’t require an undercoat or primer prior to painting. Just a good sand and wipe over with Gloss Off. They do sometimes require a third coat in light colours but it’s so much easier dealing with just one type of paint. Do they yellow? Well yes they will over time. The higher sheens will yellow faster due to the higher oil content but they certainly aren’t going to yellow like oil paints do.

There are very many pure acrylic finishes that do the job and if I was spraying I would go for them over the hybrid due to the easier clean-up and less sticky overspray.

At a Farrow and Ball trade day they stated that their Exterior eggshell was a pure acrylic. Although they said a few things that day which I still doubt! The F&B exterior eggshell certainly sprays well (I use a Graco 9.5 HVLP)

Hi I had a slight problem with scratches from peopes hands with the new Dulux Quick Drying Satinwood on top of old oil based eggshell,in high traffic areas, doors I sugersoaped ,rubbed down well and then 2 coats of the satinwood.
So I thought I would try krudkutter,rub down a coat of zinsser bin mixed to the top colour and a coat of satinwood on top.any views on this spec. I,ve heard you have to leave the bin for certain amount of time before putting further coats on.cheers

Hi Chris, the Dulux QD Satinwood will require primer or undercoat prior to painting. It’s not formulated to apply directly to existing oil paints. You could use their own QD undercoat but I’ll be honest I’m not a fan of it. It doesn’t cover particularly well, in white, and it needs a very thorough prep to adhere well.
Cover Stain or BIN would give the adhesion required as would 123, though this would take longer to cure than the other 2 products.

Hi is the dulux supergrip primer a good alternative and does that take a few days to cure before applying further coats

Your mileage may vary, and Supergrip could turn out to be marvellous over previously painted surfaces with an alternative waterborne system on top, but Supergrip was always recommended on the spec sheet and the label, as a primer on tricky hard surfaces and as a base for oil undercoat and topcoats only, which is the only way I have ever used it.

Coverstain, Otex, BIN or Isofix are proven for what you arr faced with.

Supergrip has a long history too, I first used it in 1990-something on laminate furniture, never knew it could be done, and it worked great. I used it on a lot of clear lacquered kitchens as a primer before applying a Little Greene oil system. It is very grippy on lacquered surfaces, lays off very flat, dries fast and next day away you go. (Nothing quite like Otex but still, reliable.)

Dulux put the cat among the pigeons when they changed the label making it out to be suitable with oil or waterborne topcoats. (Perhaps 2 coats of the primer would solve the suction issue, but that is a change in approach that doesn’t seem to be documented.)

I was recently talking about the various Dulux innovations with Ron and where he thinks Supergrip fits in to the scheme of things these days and he commented, that having trialled it with a Dulux waterbased system, he found that the supergrip is not a friendly base at all, because it sucked the life out the topcoats. In my oil base experience that was not the effect at all. It makes me wonder why Dulux changed their stance.

There is a rumour that Sikkens have had their own Satura waterborne primer re-branded for Dulux, but the paint world is full of unsubstantiated stories like that, and formulas get tweaked without anyone saying anything, so till whatever is in the tin is proven, who knows. Stick with the proven product.


Hi Ron I phoned the dulux technical advice line about the specification for QD satinwood on previous painted oil surface and he replied good preparation and 2 coats of QD satinwood wood be fine.confused.

I don’t know the spec for the QD satin but am surprised it doesn’t require an undercoat over existing oil. On another day you may get conflicting information from the technical department I’m afraid.
I wouldn’t worry to much if you’ve done the job though, just sand any scratched areas and repaint. Most WB products will adhere better given time.