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Best Practice Wall Polishing & Painting

Brilliant … I think i did see this in the past but lost it somewhere. Ok is perfect, will read and probably come back with a million Q’s a little later on but gives me a great starting point for planing.

In the meantime … back to varnish stripping!!!

Cheers Andy

…and I thought I had problems! What a project. Yes will definitely be in touch Ben, Many thanks for the pointers.

Hi Andy, have decided to bite the bullet and do the office (currently having the woodwork stripped) with the TX-130 but struggling to find anyone locally who can supply.

Can you suggest anyone who can supply mail order and next day delivery ideally?

Many thanks

Here is the link for UK distributors

Also ask @a_barbeau for the Beissier trowel applied skim coat as option

Seems difficult to source…can’t see any obvious suppliers on internet. Suppliers I’ve spoke to later on seem to be keener on the Planeo system than special orders for TX130. I have seen the video of this but unsure if it’s in the same league.

Hi Andy…and happy new year to you. At last about to give this a go. Have a room about the size of a single garage which was paster boarded out a few years back. It’s all in good shape save for were a few data and audio cables have been dug in and filled and where two ceiling plaster boards join. But it’s been painted just with shed Dulux & budget tools … before I became TP enlightened … looks upwards to the light :smile:

Just about to order the Presonnet as an alternative to the TX130, ordered the Toupret fine scrim tape and the Elafib. Just looking at the caulking tool and noted your comments in the article…got any recommendations here Andy…you mentioned that the plastic one is better than the stainless steel ones.

Paints I’ve got Ben helping me on and about to order today and most likely try the Eico or Matt Motion ones I’m going to give a go. But a question there please…what roller and roller options would you recommend me to get and use? Or indeed would you go for a roller or brush? If I could get some pointers on roller and/or brushes to order and use would be great. It’s a small enough room to have a go without getting in too much of a state if things go a bit AWOL. Many thanks

Andy hi again. Just trying to understand the depth of coat required on the filler side. From the photos it looks very thin. I have an impression of it being literally just imperfection deep…sort of filling the moonscape as it were…or is it a full layer coat? And can you give an idea of depth of application please 0.5mm, 1mm 3mm etc?

Thanks again

Another year to get it right :slight_smile:

Send Aaron @a_barbeau your postcode and he will sort out a local supplier of the equivalent of TX130.

Any 10"-12" plastic “artex” type caulking blade will be much of a muchness. I would sand one edge slightly to take the edge off, and that becomes your smoothing side. Mark your handle so you always see which is the “right” side.

The only reason I say plastic is better, it is more forgiving I suppose, not as close to real plastering!

The Wooster pro doo-z sleeves do it for me, the 14" 3/8" pile and a Wooster 4.5" mini sleeve in same pile covers most eventualities. Do the Jack Pauhl thing and bevel the ends with scissors to avoid tramlines. Cut in with a 2.5" Fox or 2.5" Picasso, dampen rollers and brushes before use, what’s not to like!

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These are skim coats, more like a very thick coat of paint than a plaster skim. Any deep gouges sort out first with powder filler then skim a complete coat.

I don’t know what 1mm thick looks like if truth be told, I’m more on the arty touchy feely side, just be aware to keep it thin, can’t be too thin, just add coats. Two thinner coats better than one thicker. Thinner layers will dry quickly and you can say do a wall once, then go back and touch over again and it will blend in.

Ask @charliebudd about too thick, it doesn’t really work well. Does that help, short of doing it for you, not quite sure how else to explain it.

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…I’ll expect you round about 4 to do it…no rush :smile:

No is perfect Andy…and to be honest what I thought and indeed what I’d hoped for. More than happy with that, I didn’t want to get into a semi-plastering thing…thin application is me, semi plastering is not. And indeed I did see Charlie’s experiences a while back reading thinking on.

Brilliant, was just the confirmation I needed before crashing in. Thanks again Andy

Yes indeed…reckon I’ll have it cracked to by about the age of say…91! :smile:

Brilliant…I feel an ‘ordering’ hour coming on. No is great, I have read and read…and you know when you read so much that you went past the point of absorbing enough and into the territory of information overload…sometimes you just need to strip back to core facts.

Have a shopping list, a reasonable idea what to do and later in the week zero excuse for not starting…presses delete! cheers Andy

Andy morning to you.

The Prestonett filler is working a treat in the main although I made the fool mistake of doing a room that whilst less important (our gym) is probably the most complex in the bloody house…down-lighters, mirrors on walls, loads of power and cable outlets and a split level roof and chamfered angled corners running between wall and ceiling…nitemare in logistic terms.

So way more time consuming than imagined but result = perfection. Another league again.

A simpler more normal room would be way quicker. Anyway adopt, adapt and improve.

Quick question though Andy if I could please:

… I get a lot of bubbles (either raised above surface like little domes) or the reverse, small craters. It is obviously my technique not product (product is a joy to use) but any ideas based on your experience why? Is why I’m loosing a lot of time…going over a second and third pass in patches.

It does not matter so much for this room…nearly at the paint prep stage but keen to try adjust that for next time.

All the best

I know what you are saying. If they appear at the time of applying first coat, I believe it is moisture being sucked out of the filler by the substrate to leave little bubbles. If you spot it at the time, skim a bit more over it, and trowel it out firmly. To be honest, I wouldn’t expect to apply a one coat wonder, so a second flick over all surfaces to perfect these types of odd blemishes is preferable. Going round 3 times, though, stand in the corner! :smile:


:slight_smile: … I know you just cant get the staff!!! … in reality it’s two coats and a patch up exercise. They are a pain mind. And yes I think I might be over working the material some.

Strangely I notice it can repeat in the same areas…the bubbles reform over the old bubble when it’s reapplied. As you say, a gentle reskim seems to check it and strangely I noticed todfay that the angle of the spreader seems to affect it…or am I going Prestonett crazy…been flling too long! :smile:

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Morning all, have been refinishing all interior walls with Presonett Joint Filler & sanding flat with my new Festool kit & using instructions from Andy’s excellent article “How to skim plaster walls smooth? Toupret TX130” … results have been great and I’m about rooms in now.

But as the base was less than optimum I’m getting break through of some old paint, gypsum plaster and odd bits of PVA . It is not appearing as anything other than smooth and the finish in the main is spot on.

What concerns me is if I just do the two top coats straight over and get any reaction at the edges and was wandering if I should use some sort of very thin build primer/seal? That said I don’t want to compromise the aimed for ultra smooth finish. Any ideas or guidance to prevent a melt down when the Eico paint goes on?

Here are some pics of what it looks like…asI say its smooth but it’s not a solid plaster finish either.

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Looks like a good job!

You could test a small section with diluted Eico first coat to see if you get any unexpected reaction.

The only issue might come from PVA on plaster but I cant imagine there is any on the plaster grinning through after that level of sanding? In which case this sanded and filler/plaster surface is the exact sort of base that Prestonnet is designed to go on to and dry hard for painting.

If you are concerned, add Owatrol Emulsa Bond to first coat of Eico, and a neat second coat of Eico on top. The EB helps the paint penetrate and adhere. In worst cases, it will hold loose paint down, hence why I suggest it as a get-out-of-jail card here if the filling were letting go. Let us know how it goes.


To the rescue as always…brilliant cheers Andy.

No it all feels good and flat but my Prestonett coat is very thin. You can see some bared plaster here and there and the PVA you can just feel through the filler coat but is not so bad.

Will order a can of the EB and give it a try for the learning anyway…The Eico is very forgiving to put on and I had good experiences with that to date. Indeed I’m planning on doing the ceilings later week also with matt white Eico so I guess that will be a good indicator as you correctly mention…why is it I always read your posts and then it seems so ‘bleeding obvious’ what to do after! :blush:

Will certainly let you know how we get on and as always, appreciate the advice. Cheers

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Was just replying to another post about Venetian plaster finishes and made reference to your article above Andy.

Just to mention I must read this six times every time I do another room! Interesting this time, I noted your comment about making pencil grid lines when plastering and more specifically sanding. I’ve never done this but did this time.

What a huge amount of difference it makes to time and quality … unbelievable! I must have lost so much time in the past it’s unreal. It’s a fiddle putting the lines on but the time saved and the avoidance of second and third sanding pass over is huge.

Just goes to show how the process can always be improved. Cheers

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Pencil behind the ear when sanding big areas, gold dust. :grinning:

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Really is, such a small detail, such a huge improvement in time usage and frustration levels! :slight_smile: