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Garden Timber - treatment & re-coat advice pls

Evening all, been a while but back into decorating mode.And we starting outside this time.

Got a large wood pergola built from pressure treated timbers 6x2 then painted with several coats of think it was Ronseal in green. Has a well established wisteria growing across it on wires and stainless screw in eyes.

All good and holding up well after what 15-20 years. But is time to revisit it some.

The weather facing wood edge (Top upward facing) has started to break up some but the large sides and bottom edge still have a solid paint finish … amazing really. There’s some green growth on the solid painted faces but a quick spray of Jeyes will sort that.

Any suggestions what treatment might be good to apply to slow down the rot and kill any fungus etc. I’m also thinking if it might be an idea apply some sort of sealant to that top edge that’s flaking up a bit? I’m not sure what … I’m thinking like a simple to apply fibre glass or paint on seal that would harden into a plastic seal that could then be painted. But I have no idea what product that might be.

Hoping that makes sense. If not then can post a picture that might explain a bit better.

Keen to do now before garden starts to take off and also the wife available to assist labour wise on Friday and Saturday! :slight_smile:

Appreciate any guidance as always. Cheers

Just a gentle bump to my post. Could use some suggestions and skills from the professionals! :smiley:


Obviously I don’t know where you are in country, but to cold and to wet. Would not want to do that any time of the year but if I had to then a row of hot days needed - give time for the timber to dry out.
Give these guys ago they have the Scandinavian products. Talking of which, I remember a Finnish guy laughing at the English and their exterior paint products

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Hey Howzz, how we doing? Been a while.

We are in Telford … draw a line from Birmingham to Shrewsbury and we roughly in the middle.

And yes too wet and cold you right but no plant growth either for a while. So we have a window of opportunity.

Was thinking to spray the lot with a strong Jeyes mix and then cover with a tarp a few days to dry best as can and kill any stuff.

The paint finish over 95% is actually still really strong, needs a clean, needs a little sand, then maybe if feeling really committed then I guess should be primed again? And yes agree definitely use a Scandi paint system.

Then a colour coat. it’s a sort of forest green finish right now … normal boring garden colour.

Yes some of the tougher Scandi paints is a good steer. Will start my homework and reading for sure.

Can you think of anything that might be applied on the top (hard weather facing edge) that might seal the wood fully? Not necessarily paint but I’m thinking something like a sort of underseal type product like you might use on under side of cars? Something that can be sprayed on and painted over?

Is a poor description but do you know what I mean?

Thanks for the link. Quality stuff as always. Will try take and post a picture later to illustrate a bit better



been thinking about protecting top edges, (hope I got the right end of the stick with your question.)

My relevant practical knowledge stops at working with wooden boats where the preferred option for filling open grain wood surfaces was some form of linseed putty followed by a good paint system. Obviously the timber had to be normal dry levels before working on it. That sort of soft option is not forever but can be repaired.

The “dark side” boat painters were all over West Systems epoxy type products. They are obviously very resilient to any water, but when these products let go, so does the timber. Just a single crack in the surface is assured disaster down the road, trapping water and creating a rot haven out of sight. So in the decorating sphere Upol range springs to mind, to be used with care, I guess!


I’m stuck. Wood breathing for me with no seal. I get putting a finish on a boat, we’ve been using Tonkinois on exterior oak doors, but I know that doesn’t help. When we’ve built wooden structures we treat the cut ends with a wood preservative, I think I used lumberjack last time. if the client asks for a paint finish or that cheap diy exterior wood soup, I am packing the van quickly and dashing off into the sunset, only because once you start painting that’s it you are committed to refinishing the stuff every so many years, so I always recommend not putting anything on exterior tantalised timber. I do have the luxury of having a son who is a carpenter so would replace full timbers if needed. The over problem you have is that its a green finish which would have impregnated the wood so you will be struggling to get a decent colour change unless you stick to the same colour.

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Hi Andy (apologies slow reply … one of those weeks) … interesting options which I’m off to have a read about.

This thing is covered in a huge Clematis and Wisteria and looking at the damn thing, we have very small number of weeks to act before it disappears until not to be seen until November again … mind you, that’s a strategy as well … watch it grow and pretend it’s not there :slight_smile:

Brilliant yes will read up on both approaches …car bodywork I know way too much about but the West Systems is new to me.


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Hi Howzz, also apologies for the slow response.

Yes I’m afraid I’m a bit in that very position you describe. A big structure, painted (fortunately) with decent paint and several coats but it’s starting look the worse for weathering now.

Unfortunately I’m not as well connected as you in the chippy department. But in fairness this stuff is hefty and in no imminent danger of weakening too much.

Yes this might have been one to have left and silver naturally but when it was put up mid 90’s we here seemed suffer that garden ‘death by shades of Cuprinol’!!! that so many gardens fell victim to! :slight_smile:

Won’t have a rot. That generally will form at the bottom due to posts being totally enclosed in concrete mix rather than a collar with drainage. The Cuprinol issue is constant maintenance to make it look pretty - I think its a case of slap another coat on and enjoy the clem and wisteria. Its a shame that the Wisteria has a short bloom period. Which clematis?

As well as my son, I am spoilt in that I have a good team around me.

Just a side note make sure that you take precaution cleaning mould. Both my son and I have been taken out of the building fight with suspected airborne bacterial spores. I’ve been flattened with illness. - take care

And does anyone fancy talking hvlp - I’ll post if there is some interest

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and even better in that respect it’s wall mounted and across onto concrete posts so zero rot from the base which is good.

It’s one of those huge Montana’s … is like a flipping tree.

Is very good advice Howzz about the mould and I have to confess to being less than diligent on H&S considerations. I guess until you affected it’s easy to shrug it off.

Watch how you go … is amazing how those things seem so nothing and yet can really whack you. I got bitten by something in the Middle East late October … no-one seems know what it is but wow … energy zapping isn’t the word.

Thanks for the direction as always.

Evening guys, having read both’s advise I’m going with the following:

Mould Removal:



They sound sensible options?

I think the top edge will live without filling although will give it a good brush down.

If I read right, the Tikillua products are stated for 8 years outside. Even if that’s 5 in reality, is good enough.

Here are the photos I promised a while back…

Cheers chaps, will let you know how we get on … hoping to get a move on with that at the weekend weather permitting.

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sounds a plan. Otex is a good bridge over many previous coatings, especially where you don’t know what they are. Let us know how you get on.


Will let you know how “she” gets on … day off work Friday! :smiley:

Ironic, was just ordering a 4 x 6 waterproof tarp as Carol Kirkwood just told us a strong weather front moving in Friday. Not having her get away with this again!!! :slight_smile:

Hi Howzz, Andy.

Well a pain in the ass to get it all cleaned up and applied but have to say the Otex and Valtti ultra has worked an absolute treat. And so good to work with.

Also the Tikkurila mould removal was excellent.

The main problem was the top edge. It was way better condition than we dared hope but cleaning it off, getting it dried and Otek coated was hard work. I forgot about the f****g climbing roses! They look great but on the hands? Painful would be an understatement.

Followed the formula by the numbers … Jeyes spray then the mould treatment and clean off, Otek one coat and Valtti Ultra two coats. Amazed at how good a finish it achieves even on rough sawn timber. I had the Otek tinted to match the top coat. What a good call that was.

The trellis and plant support structures are a misery to paint … so many edges and angles. But tiz done! And I reckon it’s good for another 10 years. What a first class paint system.

Gents … first class advice as always. And very much appreciated. Made a mess of quantifying the amount needed. Had to go back and re-order twice. How on earth you go about getting that right on a job and make a profit I’ve no idea. But even then, on a value curve it still works out good. In fact I thought the Tikkurila products to be rather good value

Here’s a few shot’s of the finished product … not sure if it translates too well being sawn timber but all the same… And just managed get it done days before it all bursts into life!!! :slight_smile:

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A labour of love, but a good investment. Not that such projects are ever about the money! :wink:

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Same discussion was had here at AH64 Towers Andy :slight_smile: … was a tough one that but a bloody nice feeling that it will be solid for say 8 years. Even using the half assed products I used when it was built, it’s held up remarkably well. With these decent Scandi ones, I’m confident that the next X years will be less painful on the hands.

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