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Good Quality one coat paint for small cupboard?

Afternoon all.

Wandering what would be a high quality ‘one coat’ type solution for a solid plaster wall that you might be able to recommend? … not a huge fan of such products but I guess there’s a time and a place :slight_smile:

Have a small airing cupboard at my Mother’s place that has a small amount of salt break through lifting paint on plaster.

Was a small leak maybe 5 years back, the other side of wall (long since fixed) but the paint on the other side has lifted a little and flaked. Was only low grade ‘shed shelf’ paint.

Am working through the place substantially upgrading the decoration level but this very small room does not really warrant re-plaster, sanding etc.

Hoping there is a simple, solid matt white paint that we could apply without too much fuss bar a sand and tack clean etc. Something ideally that primed and provided finish coat.

Many thanks in advance

Have you dealt with the salts?
Clay paint for me on solid brick walls, making the assumption that the plaster is lime
or the following (mike wye - good knowledge base for traditional products)

Don’t try one coat


Hi Howzz, good to hear from you.

Sorry I explained badly. The property is approx 22 years old and plaster is modern style and on brick. And it’s rock solid, smooth and in good shape. It’s been painted maybe twice since new.

Not done anything with the salt lines. They actually quite small but have caused some small areas of paint to lift. I would say that in fact the walls were not primed well if at all. My Dad built the place and whilst a highly talented guy, decorating was not his area of enthusiasm :slight_smile:

Sorry I think I painted a grimmer picture than it actually is. The 90% of the paint is solid if poor finish cosmetically. Oh and being an airing cupboard, indeed with a central heating system in it, it is in fact bone dry … the damp came in a very small form from a lightly leaking shower manifold the other side of the wall in the bathroom. It was only found a couple of days back when the boiler was serviced. The leak was fixed at least 3 years back … so dry but unsightly.

So I don’t think it requires anything too industrial but agree your point, I’m no fan of the concept of one coat and indeed have never used it. At the same time as it’s such an invisible room in real terms (full of sheets, towels etc) then I’m thinking it does not warrant spending too much time or money on … at the same time I want to get it right of course.

Does this help to understand the need a bit better? Cheers

Ok - so Everbuild salt away. We use Johnstones durable acrylic on rental refurbs. Covers well. Vinyl and you will be struggling to cover. I know the paint police will be after me, but I do use Macphersons acrylic. The walls must be super flat as the Macphersons will shadow and show up every defect. I describe it as having a metallic sheen. The best paint I’ve used on walls was mythic that was bought out and no long available (so why have I mention it - fond memories), the other and does get a mention on this forum is Mylands marble matt, if you don’t mind rinsing some money. Anyway, fantastic paint and fantastic coverage.

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This the stuff Howzz? … If you could confirm please…

And would I need to prime with that? Coat is not so bad and is low access area.

Also thanks for the steer on Everbuild … never seen that product. Will be ordering a container of that right now.

Ouch the Mylands is pricey as you say … if it were a visible and high access room then would not be a problem at all in reality but too high bar for this one.

Yes like the sound of the Johnstones one if I got it right.

Cheers Howzz … will let you know how I get on.

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That’s the stuff. Don’t use water to wash salts, sorry if that is egg sucking - I’m sure your not.
New or unpainted plaster: I buy big tubs of contract matt to mist coat, not worth paying top dollar for a mist coat. If only small area, thin the paint you are going to use as a finish by 50:50 (use as a primer) before applying final coat[s]. Years ago when at college learning which end of a paint brush to use, the instructor would have us using an even thinner mix and slowly working up to 50:50 and then final coats. Them were the days.
It would be good if some one could work out the economy of paint and labour.
I can easily apply 6 coats to new plaster, so I then ask the question, time and labour, plus cheap paint verses a couple of coats of Mylands or Little Greene where 5l is over 3 times more expensive then 20l of contract matt.


You must also be up late watching this Brexit chaos on TV Howzz! :slight_smile:

Absolutely perfect…got it and have just ordered the Everbuild and the Johnstons products.

Not egg sucking at all Howzz. Been lucky enough to pick up some nice skills with good quality products on TP but definitely not got the full skill set and learning every time I logon. I have pockets of skills but I do miss the basics very often so every question helps that a lot.

I’m quite lucky in as much that I don’t have to work out the cost/labour ratio … I can get a nice result but I’d NEVER make any sort of profit the length of time it takes me to do so. It’s just for us, parent’s places and slowly educating kids how to do their own places.

All of my normal wall painting involves 2 coats of Presonett plaster, flat sanding then the coats are dead easy and I don’t think ever more than two … and given the paint I’ve took to using isn’t cheap then that’s important. But to do that and make a profit in the commercial world? Wow that would be very tough I’d imagine. No one round our way would pay for that sort of work. They more than happy for me to do it mind! :slight_smile: The move from Dulux to Eico is a big conceptual step for us layman types. But wow once you done it once, it’s hard to go back.

Thanks Howzz, got a very clear view how to go forward with this one and indeed it’s already in play. Will attack that later part of next week and will let you know how I get on.

All the best and thanks again

No prob.
The wife has had brexit going in a tv loop tonight. I think I’ve explained fix term parliament about 5 times. This paint talk is a good distraction as I am near blowing my brains out.
Anyway, wish you all the best and have fun. Despite what the plasters tell you, there are no black arts just a process, oh and woodchip paper of which I have tonnes to remove so maybe a brexit loop isn’t so bad!

Interesting thread, thanks.

You bring up some good points there with the true cost of cheap materials. This is a great series of posts from 2013 about price v value. Nothing has changed.

As an example, Classidur is dear as poison but the numbers don’t lie and their 2 coat systems are 30% cheaper overall than cheaper paint systems requiring more coats. When you are looking at painting the ceilings in vast shopping malls, that scale of saving matters a lot! I am pretty sure councils were specifying this most expensive of paint for voids, purely because of the cost overall.

On a human scale, I did once witness a decorator recoat a previously painted bedroom ceiling 7 times. Einstein had a few words to say about repeating a process without any change in tactic, and expecting a different result! That would have been a 2, maybe even 1 coat job with the “expensive” classidur product.

On thoroughly dried bare plaster, it seems that a premium wall paint diluted 25-50% on first coat, topped off, will look great and adhere well and makes for simple product selection.


Going take a read of that Andy. Looks interesting.

I do remember reading an article you did (from maybe the same time period) on flat walls (that I still refer to every time I take a break from the brush and return to the sentence) and remember being hugely skeptical at the beginning. But now … well now I know … it really does work, especially with the higher end paints.

And moreover, some years now after doing my first rooms, they still look immaculate … flat, great wipe down surfaces … the only degradation being what we have physically inflicted upon it. Minimal in fact. I would never have imagined that work done on walls could last 6 odd years and still be perfect. That might not help with a commercial model but a personal one … oh boy yes.

That said I remember at the age of 18 offering to paint my Grandad’s front room. Worth to mention he lived in a large rural council property and was a life-long Woodbine smoker!

What I thought would be done in an afternoon or a day … took 2 coats a day for over a week! I kid you not. I knew nothing of scrubs, stain blocks, primer etc. It cost a fortune. Worse still at the end, a neighbor kindly informed him that he only had to make a call to the council and they would have done it for nothing!!! (talking early 80’s here) .

Talk about good will gone badly wrong … time and cost and goodwill.

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Recommending Classidur for the walls?
My problem is that I have a lot of pre 80s asbestos artex to plaster over and paint. Can’t disturb it by de-nibbing which would make plastering easier, provide a better surface and then yes 2 coats. Small ceilings easy but 6 meter plus and you end up having to fill paint repeat.

To clarify, I was referencing Classidur as an example of price v value. It wasn’t a suggestion for the cupboard - although it would be a great looking cupboard :slight_smile:

Have you considered overboarding and skimming. It is a nuclear option but you will get the best fix-and-forget result and for plastering, the fastest way to a smooth finish.

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Was seriously wondering if you would use it on the walls. I have a whole house refurb and a chapel conversion. All going white.
Over boarding is my B plan, A plan would be to remove as I don’t like covering up hazardous material. Another tradesman could be working on the ceiling in the future and not know about the artex.
Cost - on average is 1k to remove an artex ceiling with asbestos, which clients won’t go for. Next I’m in front of a client saying we could overboard for a better finish but its normally a no, just skim it. On average I reckon we do 2 ceilings a month so bread and butter and we do a pretty good job. I can normally tell if an artex ceiling has been plastered over and so my aim for the ceilings we work on is to get it to the point that you can’t identify that it was originally artex. Sorry I’ve hijacked the thread.

Classidur is worth a good look if restoring older buildings where distemper is still around. Cupboards under stairs in older properties would apply too (keeping to the topic :wink: )

Thanks for laying it out so clearly about options for treating artex.

Hi Howzz.

OK just to let you know how I got on. The Everbuild applied well but I think I rushed the paint coat as it blistered up some … in fact worse than before. My fault, think leaving it a day would have been good rather than an hour!!!

The Johnstones paint is a very weird consistency out the tin but boy it covers well. Did very little surface prep other than hoover and wipe down but it covers exceptionally well. A good steer that one.

I’ve let the blistered area dry and will be giving it a sand and a patch prestonett plaster skim before applying another coat of paint.

But both items worked very well for sure … just need be a bit more patient before paint coat next time.

All the best

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Sounds like you’ve had fun. At this rate, given your projects I could employ you. I’ve got two 1920’s flats, a 1920’s house (refurbishments) and then a chapel conversion.Loads of plastering and gallons of jono’s acrylic. Anyway sounds like you’ve had moisture trapped - just a wild card suggestion is there any exterior mortar missing, or broken gutter etc? Ignore me if not.

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…is a life sentence … self imposed :slight_smile: … no no it was a leaky valve on a shower block the other side of the wall. Long since fixed and dried out but just left a watermark on the rear wall internal brickwork.

No today’s problem was entirely my fault, not the products … I applied the paint way too early. But on the walls in the cupboard that were unaffected and where I didn’t apply the Everbuild product, the finish was very very good.

Went up a couple hours ago and the paint on the wall I applied the Everbuild has dried but has crusted a watermark again … I’m sure it’s just I rushed it. I put a thin primer coat on and fingers crossed in the morning we should be good to go again with the Johnstons.

Fun? Yeah in a way that would be the right word :slight_smile: