I stumbled on this blog earlier this year & have been following it with interest since
I am slowly restoring a traditional home using oil based paints
this blog has encouraged me to consider the alternatives
Hi, what are you working on at the moment?
currently re-doing the hall + stairs @ home
all of the woodwork was stripped by us using every imaginable method back to bare wood+ left for a profeesional decorator to paint-several years ago
unfortunately he did not emloly any of the methods or techniques mentioned here ,with rough wood /snots + gobs of filler/stripper + old paint/random filling in of grooves/sharp shadow lines edges etc etc
I’m using abranet manual vacuum sanding & wet & dry sponge sanders + cloth to prepare before zissner 123 which has given a lovely base finish so far
I’ve a couple of questions for the pro’s
1] how do you get rough internal corners smooth on woodwork trim:chair rail/skirt etc?
2] which abrasive w+d sponge sheds least grit & preserves it cut ?
3] how do you use the water based gesso on panelling/moulding?
4]what does skim fill mean & how does it apply to woodwork ?
5]how do I get rid of roller marks on the dead flat wall [on the walls + ceiling ?]
I’ve got many more questions -hope this isn’t too many for a first post
this answers 3] and general tips for sorting out woodwork
4] skim fill is where you apply filler over every square inch.
So you could skim really dinged woodwork with a stiff mix of e.g. TX110 powder filler to get the worst filled, sand it down
Or skim undercoat with a fine surface filler, and paint top coats.
Or for super finish, you could skim fill with oil based gesso before top coating.
Or the gesso on grainy woodwork or minor imperfections, used like a heavy brushable base coat
5] roller marks that have dried? sand with 180 abranet.
roller marks as you are working? try bevelling the ends of the sleeve and use a decent sleeve. Lay off only top to bottom in one stroke and always keep your frame in the same direction
Avoid 9" roller sleeves unless there are no wide open spaces, the wider the better, I find.
Thanks for the info Andy
Do you think that the air driven Mirka sanders are worth considering?
I can’t justify the cost of the pro level Ceros , but would like a powered sander with credible vacuum extraction
Re sanding wood mouldings :is there an automated method worth considering or does it come down to hand graft?
Check size of air supply required. Unless you have an auto workshop you will probably be better off buying a more expensive electric sander.
I am not familiar with all the sander attachments out there. I’m sure there are festool profiles to suit. Little tricks like abrasive wrapped around a rag can get in a lot of tricky profiles