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Kitchen advice please

Hi Folks

i have a kichen to quote for and would apreciatte some advice please.
This kichen is in an apartment in a converted historic mansion building. The building was converted around 4 years ago and the kitchen fitted then; it is already painted in a lemon colour and the client would like to change the colour. Its in pretty good shape but has 4 curved doors that have a number of cracks on the curves. Its painted in an eggshell, not sure if oil or waterbased. There are 32 doors and 3 sets of drawers, six doors have glass, its shaker style. To be finished in eggshell.
I painted a kitchen for some friends of the client and they liked my work.

So questions,
A)how would you deal with the cracked curved doors?
B) what would you recommend as a spec? i was thinking;Wash with kruddcutter,rubbed down with the festool dts, one coat tinted coverstain, finished with two coats of Tikkurilla feelings.
c) your ready reckoner of ÂŁ100 a door, appears to be for an unpainted kitchen, how does that convert for a repaint?
D) Could you offer some clues to in regard to removing integral door from appliances?

The client will be away whilst i work on it but there will be someone staying who will want to make a meal or two.
I reckon it will take me 18 days to complete on my own which gives me figure for labour which is on par with your £100 a door. Feels like a lot but breaking down the component parts of the process into time, it adds up like that…a lot of work.

I look forward to hearing from you.


The ÂŁ100 per door is set by Traditionalpainter in what we would see as a full kitchen paint job from say oak to final finish. With regards to the cracks on the curved doors, I would suggest a two pack filler as the laminate can split after bending to shape.

I would go with a feelings undercoat and two topcoats in feelings or helmi/

With regards to the integrated appliance doors, every company has a different way of fixing, its a case of try it and see im afraid.

A 32 door kitchen would be in the region of 8-10 days for a tp kitchen specialist, 18 days seems rather a lot.

Hope this helps


Hi Ciaran,

I personally wouldn’t go with 2pk filler on a cracked repaint, as you have to flat it back after and you chance breaking through the original paint finish. I would suggest racking out the cracking and apply a good quality acrylic frame sealant, then wipe off the excess with a vileada type kitchen wipe.

The Fluxaf Pro Clean (diluted) is an effective degreaser or as you suggest the KKO. Be careful with that DTS sander on a repaint, you dont want to be breaking through the paint on the arris edges if you can help it!

There is plenty of vids on youtube for removing integrated doors but as a general rule, look down the edges of the dishwasher door (metal part) for a star shaped screw sometimes they are recessed, there will be one each side (sometimes 2) the door is then normally fixed by two metal prongs at the bottom on the innerside of the door so you need to gently pull the integrated door upwards, (sometimes held with velco at the top end also). Trail and error as Chris mentions.

Bear in mind with the glazed doors, how much work could be involved and does the client want the inside of the glazed cabinets painting!?

I would go along with Chris’s spec, there’s really no need for a coverstain on a repaint and if you say its in good nick then leave the heavy solvent alone. If you suspect adhesion issues then Otex is far better over a repaint than coverstain, especially when it comes to flatting back!

32+ door kitchen is a fair size job and will take a fair bit of time but 18 days does seem a lot, that’s 3.5 weeks! Invest in an Erecta-rack it will pay for itself on that job.

Good Luck,

Look forward to seeing it finished


I use Otex all the time now indoor and outdoor., so would second that under Helmi.

Thank Chris and Russ
that’s very helpful,
In regard to the time estimate, thanks for the feedback. Like I said I thought it seemed high to, maybe I will have to rethink it.

I had taken into account the work on the glazed doors and yes the inside of those cabinets needs to be painted.

Here is my rethink;
There are 44 handles to remove and replace, 12 drawer faces to remove and replace, 32 doors like wise. There are also 5 door size panels a big island with a fair bit of work.
Allowing 10 mins a door/drawer side to paint per coat, 2 mins per side de nib and wipe down 10 mins per item to remove and replace, 4 hrs remove and replace for handles, 4 hrs masking, 4 hrs cleaning, 8 hrs prep,18 hrs total end panels, edges on carcuss,etc inside cabinets. 4 hour clear up. Still comes to 12 days, no room for deviation. Add to that the fact that I am up two flights of stairs and a walk to the carpark. ADD TO THAT SOME OVERALL BREATHING SPACE :)) 8HRS

Does 13 Days sound close?

I would genuinely like to hear how a TP painter would break it down time wise to be able to squeeze that into 8 or 10 days.

I have had a number of jobs go over schedule this summer and am trying to refine the estimating process…i reckon my refusal to overlook small defects leaves me there longer than allowed. The above timing sounds like a graft to get get it done…surely we should be enjoying the process:)

Russ how long to erect Erecta?

How does the Otex flow?

[quote]Quote from Zen on September 2, 2014, 23:02

In regard to the time estimate, thanks for the feedback. Like I said I thought it seemed high to, maybe I will have to rethink it.[/quote]

Painting kitchens, you are on a constant learning curve. Your approach is right on track with the break down of tasks, that’s the only way to arrive at timings.

I would say that painting a door and drawer one side, it should be a lot quicker than 10 minutes a side. Doors are one item, drawers another, 2 to 3 minutes each. (I don’t look at them as a natural pairing, like you just described. A run of drawer fronts set up right is not a time consuming task.)

There are several videos where Mark Nash for instance shows it is around 3 minutes for one coat on a door if you are set up right. If that is your pace, that is a considerable saving on your timing and multiplied out, gets you closer to Chris rough timing. (I think your description of the island, not too clear!)

You have the tasks broken down, your timings are what YOU know / think. If by breaking it down, it works out 12 days for you and no breaks, that’s what you have to base the project on. You are doing it! Revise the next one based on this one.

Also, see what the client says ( because with all the will in the world, they may not value the job at the price you quote!

Fun comes as standard! This sort of work isnt for everyone,and it isn’t fun at times, in fact it can be very stressful, but what job isn’t. It is what we choose to specialise in. It’s a bug, or a defect, not sure which :slight_smile:

Good luck with it and note everything down for future reference.

The Erecta rack is mainly erected as you work through your doors.

Otex flows much better than Coverstain in my opinion and sands very well indeed

i use ottex gives that lovely smooth finish and flows nicely,its expensive but worth it.


I work methodically for 10 hours a day (sometimes longer) + traveling, I do like to have the odd brew and a cheeky fag, if I can get it! We all work at different paces but a lot of it can be down to how your set up and your routine, which can vary depending on the type of kitchen. Mark Nash seems to be able to knock a kitchen out quicker than most but he is The Master’ and does carry a magic wand!

Its not a race, its the quality that counts and I wont and don’t compromise on that, even if I am running over schedule and budget. I was always told “Your only as good as your last job” and that sticks with me.

Get your sen some Mirka GoldFlex 320g for knibbing back the otex, hoover and tack rag before your top coat.

Full erection in 5 mins but I like to build as I paint, it saves sliding doors along the bars and getting metal marks!

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