Need some expert advice looking to make a nice job of my interior walls i have done the filling and was wondering whether i should use bulleye 123to spot prime before i paint,also what is the order a professional decorator would do a room sounds stupid question i am trying to achieve professional results.I tape up and cover everything first,then do filling,then woodwork doors prime undercoat,then ,paint ceiling and walls, do glossing last.Also use dewalt to sand walls and filler,i no the mirka is good but haven’t got enough use at moment for one but i will get there.
You are sort of on track with the order of work if you are talking emulsioning plastered ceiling and walls and new woodwork?
I tape up and cover everything first,
correct in terms of being tidy. If a straightfprward redecoration, you might look at sheeting the floor and painting the ceiling before you get any other kit out That is a Jack Pauhl trick.
then do filling and sanding,
[i]then you have two options. Prime, caulk, fine surface fill, complete your woodwork to a finish. Tape it up, then paint ceilings and walls.
or the conventional order, ceiling, walls, woodwork glossing last, which takes longer.[/i]
Also use dewalt to sand walls and filler, i no the mirka is good but haven’t got enough use at moment for one but i will get there.
[i](as long as you can extract the dust at source, a power sander of any sort is a head start on olde worlde sanding. Mirka and Festools are the leading edge tools for that level of clean and efficient working)
Forgot the first question. Spot prime with the emulsion if it is minor filling, or just prime the whole wall, if it looks like a quicker option.
Spot prime with 123 isnt too good, may result in flashing through. The correct way with 123 is to spot prime with 123 and then coat the whole wall with 123 for a dead even basecoat. That is Zinsser word on it too.[/i]
Well,i am to start hall,going to spot prime with emulsion,then use zinser bulls eye 123 ,as you recommend,for dead even base coat,what roller ,or brush would you recommend,for painting with bullseye.Also dose it matter what colour emulsion i uses still not decided on top coat colour,but have some good emulsion in garage,to spot prime with.
[color=#eb0603]EDIT (Please see above, I have clarified what to do with 123 / spot priming. I do not mean spot prime with emulsion and basecoat with 123. There are two ways:
Spot prime with 123 and then coat the whole wall or ceiling with a coat of 123.
or spot prime with emulsion and then paint wall completely with emulsion[/color]
when you said it will give a dead even coat Andy ,what type of customer would want this type of job it will be more towards the top end if i am right,5 litres of bulleye wont be cheap,but worth it for quality finish.I think you should do your own online decorating courses you would do very well.
Our aim here is to show high end specs and going the extra mile. Very often, these “long winded or OTT” approaches are not much slower than working on the cheap. eg It does not take twice as long to apply 2 full coats than try and get away with a one coat.
A bit off topic, but…
Also think of a general decorating job with a bit of skirting, a door frame and a window to gloss. If you offer the client a conventional one undercoat and gloss you are offering an OK job. If you offer two undercoats and a gloss, that second undercoat is easy to apply, but the quality difference is significant, filler well covered. An extra couple of hours, some extra material is the only difference between an average and a good job.
Ask the client to decide, don’t decide for them. Show them a sample of a 1 undercoat v 2 undercoat. Let them see and feel the difference. At least they are aware of the choices. Most of the time, clients are never given that choice because decorators assume it is always about the money now, not the value over a long time…
andy your a top guy,bought 5 litres bullseye ,what your saying is spot prime with bullseye 123,then i coat of bullseye,is that it.