Hi looking for some help ,looking to paint kitchen,with emulsion whats the best paint to use,for walls and ceilings also best way to protect surfaces,would it be best to use lining paper,tape,cotten sheets for floor.
Hi, thanks for your question.
I like my painting to pass without drama, so personally I would only use acrylic based emulsions with Wooster 3/8 pile Pro-Doo z sleeves - just don’t seem to get any aggravation, and super coverage and the paints tend to lay flat too, and none of the pleasures of flaky bits and stringy deposits in contract and vinyl matt paints you keep hearing about.
Obviously i dont know the condition of the walls and ceilings, but sanding and filling, and dealing with any flaky paint is priority before finishing paints come into play.
If the ceiling is to be white, and if there is any sort of staining and discolouration, I would make sure it is filled and sanded nicely then apply 2 coats of mythic primer, job done. Leave at least 4 hours between coats to ensure nothing is drawn through on the second coat. Also Blackfriars rebranded Classidur Universal Primer, provides a stunning matt finish that will cover all sorts of nasties, and stay white. (That doesnt level out so flat, but on a ceiling, you just see a beautiful semi matt finish.)
For colours on ceiling, tint the primer. (Classidur needs to be tinted with a specific stainer.) Or apply colour emulsion over the top of the primers.
On ceilings in good condition, Ron is using Mythic flat matt as standard.That just works.
For walls, going through the sheens, you can apply a chalky matt paint (Little Greene absolute matt or F&B type stuff) and then protect it with a few coats of Polyvine dead flat varnish. It leaves the colour slightly “richer” like water dark but it will be wipeable and matter than a practical acrylic matt.
These practical matts are Mythic, or Little Greene Ultimatt is the business. Holmans do Tikkurila high acrylic content wall paints. All these can be given a good scrub without problems, yet they are not particularly shiny. They are almost flat, to be fair, compared to vinyl matt or please not, vinyl silk.
Kitchen and bathroom paint. A pet hate of mine. Fungicidal type scrubbable finishes. If you have to deal with condensation and unsightly spores, you need a sheen on the paint to prevent contamination getting through the thickness of the paint. So either ready made Kitchen and Bathroom paint invariably with too much shine and a big price tag, or personally, to keep the aesthetic going, I would pick my “posh” very tough acrylic paint and just add anti-fungal additive. Independent stores have put additive in for me at the mixing machine, it works. Adding fungicidal potions to a porous contract matt solves nothing.
I’m sure others have their favourite brands.
Masking up - lightweight, dare I say “cheapo” plastic sheets for the cabinets; low tack tapes for keeping the plastic in place, and lining paper on the floor taped down, if you are going to be decorating for a while.
If you have any other questions, please ask
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Andy what do you think of crown trade paint is it a professional paint,the paint you recommend like farrow ball isn’t this designer paint if i am correct.Keep up the excellent work on website.
I don’t know much about crown trade paint to be honest.
Don’t be ambushed by the term “designer paint” as though it is for designers only. It is more a blanket term for premium paints, generally products from companies that arent as stingy with essential and quality ingredients as the main stream companies.
Without wishing to generalise too much, designer emulsions seem to be more expensive, just because it is designer. But by and large the acrylic base is more expensive than vinyl base, and really paints like LG Ultimatt are not any more expensive than their true equivalent, like Dulux Diamond range.
It is interesting you say I recommend Farrow and Ball. I personally don’t In my view they spoil the designer sector because they overmarket products that arent always “premium”.
Products from the Little Greene stable seems to be very reliable.
I moved 2 posts to an existing topic: Work experience
Andy i painted my kitchen ,put down lining paper,cheap plastic on worktops and taped up sockets extra.When i moved the fridge,and freezer to prepare and paint behind it the lining paper all ripped as you would expect.How do you do it do you put everything in the middle of room then put the floor protection down or do you wait till last when finished the bulk of room then take up lining paper then put lining paper down on the last area you have to do.
As for lining paper and fridges. Bit of a pain agreed, even a pain at times moving fridges with no lining paper to worry about. Try to tape the main body of lining down where the fridge is, so there is n loose end ot scuff up. Tilt the fridge back slightly and pull out. When you have it so far you can usually manhandle it easier and work it gently onto the main floor.
It isnt always necessary to lay lining paper down where the fridge is. (The reason for lining is to protect where you are walking regularly. many fridges are out the main walk way, so a sheet of cardboard to protect the floor, paint, and on completion remove cardboard. Get the fridge back in.
Is that what you mean? I have a certain image in mind, may be off base with you are talking about.
Thanks andy much appreciated.
I have just tried the new crown next generation gloss and must say flows nicely,leaves beautiful finish would highly recommended trying.My next project is a hallway can anyone recommend good kit,paint,or any other expert advice to a keen learner.I see on here the Wooster decorating set is this still the best,kit on the market.
Wooster kit is very robust and reliable, Sherlock GT roller poles and cage frames a must, the roller buckets are also very sturdy.
Paint wise intelligent matt or absolute matt by Little Green would be my choice, which one would depend on household occupants? Sticky finger brigade or quiet couple!