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Painting Gravel Boards to High finish

Morning all,

Well whilst Mrs AH64 did a generous job with creosote on our bottom garden fence panels, she also managed to get it all over the bottom fit gravel boards!!! I’ve never seen so intense an effort to protect them from accidental spotting end up so failed! :slight_smile: Seriously … I’ll put some pictures below.

Anyway in reality they could maybe do with a paint coat or two.

The boards themselves are 20+ years old but 100% perfect, no chipping, breakage and previously were immaculate bar a little green build on the top edges.

I’ve used the Sandtex smooth masonry products in the past with reasonable success but as anyone who’s read my posts will know, I love learning about better products and techniques to apply … of which all have been successful with support from TP folks.

I’m interested in what the best smooth masonry paint might be and the best way to apply it. I’m guessing to roll it on? The concrete upright posts are fine, they were metal clad several years back so it’s just the single gravel board in each fence position. The colour we will keep pretty much to standard finish … there a colour called ‘Chalk Hill’ I think it is that’s a fraction brighter but still basically concrete colour.

And if we can find the right product and method then will do all the other panels as well which (touch wood) were not Banksy’ed up! :slight_smile:

Hi Amateurhour - Still working on that house!
Personally - if exposure to harsh weather conditions is low, then some cheap trade masonry paint like leyland for me. Next step sandtex or acrylic jonos. However, you could try this - Teknow Siloksan. I use Teknos aqua on outside woodwork and it works both in remaining white and holding up to weather - good quality stuff. Brush for me although we have sprayed jonos acrylic. Although you could treat yourself to a wooster mini - frame and try a superfab. Andy will know the right sleeve.

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Hi Howzz … yes is a life sentence it seems! Mind I am trying build in as much ‘low maintenance’ as humanly poss now. Whilst those bottom 4 panels are wood and creosote, I replaced the sides with UPVC panels … yes I shuddered at first as well but I have to say they are surprisingly good and effective. No more creosote and splinters for me … hopefully ever.

As you well know, the TP web site has turned me into a decorating material and tool snob. I’ve had enough of shed quality materials. And I have to say, I hold you guilty! :slight_smile: …the Tirrikula products suggested were the business. The quality just shines out. And to be honest it’s a lot more fun to try the new stuff.

Reading up about Teknow Siloksan as we speak.

I have got wooster frames and sleeves although I’m not familiar with superfab. Will have a read. I’ve only used the micro plush small sleeves and those have been really good if a little hard to source.

Thanks for the steer Howzz … reading being done. Cheers, will let you know how I get on

What is it with quality materials and tools and increased enjoyment levels - I get it. My son moved from dewalt, makita to mafell and his enjoyment of sheet material cutting went up. There is an equation to be had here. Do let me know on the Teknos.

…there really is. Some of it is obvious … like using the now defunct Spachtel or Gras le Laquer or Presonnett joining filler. Things that just produce a better result.

But then there is the aesthetic or just the change of things … like using the Scandi paint tins with their differing seals and viewing windows and fold downable edges.

So some is definitely quantifiable and measurable … and some of it is just nice differences. Me? I like both. If you gotta buy a tin of beans then it might as well be an interesting tin of beans :slight_smile:

Cheers Howzz

Just been reading about the Silkosan product. reads very well and will be ordering a colour tinted tub of that I reckon.

But was thinking … the creosote over spill, any best way treat that before painting? Or would that have stabilised by now you think? Was slapped on approximately 4 weeks back I think it was. 90% of the boards are fine in reality, 3 are pretty bad.

Just to check before applying good stuff and expecting miracles.


Creosote is a natural born enemy of most pigments in paint coatings. If it has cured, traditionally it would have been sealed with aluminium leafing primer. It is like liquid tin foil, which on the one hand will stop all stains dead, but you have to be aware that it creates a totally impervious layer. Therefore any moisture trying to get out of wooden substrates has no chance of escaping through that surface. In other words it may (or may not) create a problem later on with the substrate. Thats not very decisive advice, sorry.

Its a bit like the decision when preserving planks on wooden boats. The chemical nasty will resist water longer than the natural “goop” mix of turps and linseed oil and pine tar, but damage can occur under the coating out of sight and is never spotted till too late. The goop is less hard core resistant but it is transparent so you can see what is happening.

I don’t know the technicals of Lacq’s waterbased creosote equivalent but it might be worth asking @BenSturges if it is applicable.

Thats me done for Saturday :slight_smile:

Hi Andy … I think I’m with you.

No the stuff she got on the wood was excellent … was dry when applied and and taken nicely, is just the over spill onto the concrete that’s the issue. Never seen such a disproportionate mess come out from such a simple job!!!

I guess some more scrubbing (even a little light grinding with the angle grinder) might help.

You think some form of stain block might help locally applied?


Got me there, I don’t know! Power wash? Relay the concrete :laughing:

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Turns out a budget degreasing agent bought for another project lifted the 90% of the Creosote over-spill. White spirit didn’t touch it but the degreaser worked a treat.

Tried the Teknos Siloksan Facade Silicate Masonry Paint suggested by Howzz and it was lovely to apply. Put two coats on but think it would benefit from a gentle sand and a third coat. Will post a photo early next week. Had it tinted to Chalk Hill shade off the Sandtex colour card.

A fine paint for sure. Thanks for the steer.

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You are accumulating plenty of good products in your shed! Thanks for the heads up on the de-creosoting solution.

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You know the weird thing? As some of this stuff costs a bit more, I’m trying work out quantities (badly most of the time) and also under ordering as I do have overall cost in mind.

As a result (like with with the Teknos) I tend have to order twice. Bad on shipping costs but means I’m actually being left with not so much in way of ‘shed fodder’ half tins etc.

So the old Dulux 1990’s pastel shades still dominate the paint grave yard! Used to bed in Toupret ultra fine scrim :slight_smile:

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brilliant use of waste.

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Hi what degreaser did you use?

I cleaned of with virosul,then two coats of bullseye 123,folllowed by johnstones masonary,tape test and scratch test,slotted panels back in after cresoting,3 coats.

Will check Jason … it was an unbranded one off ebay. Not unbranded sorry but not a make I’d heard of. Will find out and come back to you

I got away with two coats of the Teknos to cover the creosote but needed another to get a decent luminescence. Will make a note of the Virsol product, interesting

Bullseye 123 should work. In some cases 2 coats with 24 hrs between them are needed - depends on the nature of the stain - worth experimenting with though to save time.


Hi Simon and thanks for the suggestion.

And I think I will be doing this even though I thought I’d got away with it with two coats Teknos.

Rather than break trough, I think the panels above have bleed a very small amount of surplus creosote down and over the gravel boards …it almost looks like a very fine rust mark.

Will need a re-coat a minimum and I think I’d be wise use a can of the Bullseye to be 100% then a Teknos coat again. May leave that till earlier part next year as is a huge amount of garden rebuilding going on and further damage may be possible.

Thanks for the suggestion