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Sikkens Satura BL

Hi Folks,
can anyone offer any heads up on Satura BL, i love the finish for an acrylic it slips like an oil finish when cured, lovely, and opacity isnt bad.

However compared to other water based products it takes some getting on.
Drags a bit even with floetrol added. I have been experimenting today with brushes, found the Corona knight the best after trying corona silk and cody.

Any tips will be recieved with much gratitude.


Satura BL is my first choice for White interior trim work every time. I agree, the finish for acrylic is as close to oil as can be.
Personally don’t use Floetrol or Zamix in BL as i find it flows out beautifully on its own - if anything I find it has more of a tendency to run and sag if overapplied than say Dulux Diamond Satinwood, however the end result when cured is exceptional.
My brush of choice for acrylic egg/satin is either Cody or Purdy Sprig Elite.

Hi Dave
Thanks for your post. Ok so I agree that on surfaces such as frames skirtng boards and panelled doors it is no trouble. Where I struggle is on flush doors or areas that are larger with nothing to break it. I haven’t yet been able to finish these areas and keep the wet edge.
How are you managing to do so ?

For larger surface areas such as panels on doors I use 4" roller - wooster micro plush then lay off with R&Langnickel (Mark Nash’s video) For completely flush doors I use 9" short pile roller to apply and lay off with R&L

I’ve only started using Sikkens Rubbol BL this year but am completely won over to it for a superb finish for white woodwork trim and doors

Hi Guys,

I find the best way to maintain a wet edge with any WB paint on large panelled surfaces is by dampening the surface, for this I use a blue Mirka Microfibre cloth. Rinse under the tap and wring out until slightly damp then wipe over the area to be painted, this also acts like a tack cloth and removes any dust. For larger flush doors I do the top first and then the bottom half so that the surface is always slightly damp. Rinse & Repeat on each area. At the end of the week I put all my cloths in the washing machine with a drop of fabric conditioner and they are good to go Monday morning. For lapping in stiles and rails on panelled doors I give the joint area a fine spray with one of those green fly trigger bottles, this works great!

I know one of my peers, Master Nash uses a pump up garden spray bottle whilst applying Furniture Feelings but I personally find it puts too much on.

I know some decs use a yellow car sponge for dampening down but again I think it puts to much on and can leave tiny yellow fragments on the surface.

Hope this helps, let me know how you get on?


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Thanks Russ
I bought a pump up spray and I agree is does seem to deliver more water than I would like. I have been using spontex sponges to damp down which are fine when new. I will try the mirka cloth. So for clarity; are you saying that on a flush door you will damp the top section paint and then damp bottom and paint.?

Yes exactly that, and if need be trigger spray your wet edge for lapping in, see how you get on!

Nice one thank you

Have you thought of trying Tikkurila Feelings on woodwork instead of BL Satura? If you like the finish of the Sikkens you will be very impressed with the Tikkurila.

Opacity is better than the BL Satura and open time is longer. I add XIM Latex X-Tender to it, and this further increases wet edge time.

I’ve found the best brush for it is a Corona Tynex/Orel Ontario and for rolling I use a Wooster 4" Micro Plush. In the right conditions and with XIM added it is possible to roll the paint on and leave it without laying off with a brush.

thank you Mr Taylor, I hope to try the Tikkurila soon; on my next job back. It’s good to know something about its properties. I will certainly give the Ontario a trial.

Has anybody tried the satin finish in the German company caporol?