i have a very good friend and colleague
who has purchased some pretty good kit for spray painting but is struggling to find a solution to the lines that are being left in the work he is doing with his Graco airless. He has tried changing from v matt to flat matt, more pressure, less pressure, new tips, closer to surface, further away, all to no avail. He is getting conflicting advice from those he has asked including the graco rep and feels properly frustrated and ready to chuck the unit out!
I wonder if the master sprayers amongst you can offer some help?
I’m not a master sprayer and use HVLP. I too have been very frustrated that such simple mechanisms - sold at huge price, can go wrong so often. However with plenty of planned notice I’ve had a couple of visits on site from the Graco rep to resolve my problems and he’s been very helpful.
i am venturing into the world of hvlp spraying myself, i have started very low end; a friend has lent me his earlex pro, which i believe is more of a diy tool. I went to spray store for a couple of hours demo on Wednesday and used a stage 3 with a wagner gun. Then came back home and have been playing with the earlex, i have managed to get ok results.
my good friend who i post the above question for, i gonna loan me his stage 4 hvlp so i will have learned a little about the benefits of spending more . I wont rush in to buy till i learn a bit more, but am excited at learning to spray. I am getting a fair bit of bespoke joinery to paint and hope to use a combination of spray and brush to speed things up.
what is your kit Dave and how are you putting it to use?
Hi C I have been thinking about buying a kit ,what spray shop did you go in for a few hours demo.?
I have a Graco HVLP 9.5 Turbo which I use for cornices and roses. I use a No5 needle and nozzle.
I bought it some years ago to spray acrylic eggshell onto trim , but for two reasons I stopped doing that
1 subsequent touch ins look awful if applied by brush
2 given that all my work is residential the amount of time taken masking outweighed any time benefits of spray v brush.
I bought an Earlex ‘pro’ many years ago to do cornices &roses. It’s motor is very weak and only suitable for very thin products such as stains, varnishes and stuff for garden fences,
To push emulsion through you need to dilute very heavily (you dilute and mix it till it runs through a small funnel for 45 seconds) but the dilution rate is so watery it just runs off the plasterwork.
However it does spray Zinsser BIN very well ( add a splash of meths) and I use occasionally on spindles but again you have to weigh up the time taken to mask the underside of handrail etc. We have an empty house with 15" high skirtings coming up in November - ideal for spray
The major factor to consider is not the spraying time thats the easy bit, its the masking time.
A domestic environment with carpets/hard flooring and furniture need expert masking (scotch 3M edge lock and Tesa yellow)
An empty new build or warehouse is a totally different project with totally different requirements and timings.
Accurate and thorough masking is as important as spray technique. In the States there are guys who just mask, its that crucial to get right.
Lastly if you do invest in spray, make sure you spend a morning with the rep getting to know the machine , and all likely fault finding, not just getting a spray demo. Thorough cleanliness is essential, the smallest speck of dried paint not cleaned properly can cause breakdowns - frustrating and time consuming!
Would I recommend investing in spray? depends totally on the type of environment you’re working in, and you do need to some serious advance time planning re the masking! (Did i mention masking!!!)
for furniture spraying consider making a spray booth or tent/gazebo
Spray store Guildford, behind brewers. You need to make an appointment askfor Ben or Graham. It will give you a good idea of its usefulness.
Thanks Dave, very helpful advice, i to am mainly working residential property but for the last few years have taken an approach on trim that already puts me half way there with the masking; as i use waterbased sytem for trim i bosh it in as you would to wwallpaper, going over onto the wall. I then tape up the trim and finish walls last, leaving lines that i would be hard pressed to achieve cutting in after. The occasional bleed is touched in with a royal langnikel artist brush, jobs a good en. Consequently i am more efficient with masking now, the floors i am already laying carpet protector and lining paoer on hard floors so i cant see too much extra time to spray above my usual.
The main thing is the furniture though, i would like to be able to give the fine finish spray job if needed. One joinery company i am doing work for has indicated that if i am set up for it they can through lots my way. I am already planing the conversion of my garage into a spray booth. The way i am seeing it is a good investment as i hope that eventually i can more than halve my labour time.
thanks for you considered advice Dave, i will enter with caution
Done some spraying many years ago on some park homes trailers in Cornwall, it was a windy day the off spray covered a few homes, thankfully I new how to remove, after that I used boards around unit to stop ,off spray,i no a plaster who uses a painter, he said he can spray a whole empty house in a day.
Hi guys bought myself a spray kit planning on doing my first room, as for spraying below coving what’s the best way to protect coving from getting paint on, thought about kip masking paper, is there any faster effective product I can use.
could be effective for spraying doors as well ,what do you think Dave?