I have some slight movement cracks on ceiling i have to caulk,for a top decorator do they do all the skirting ,door frames,window frames,or anything else i have missed,are there any tricks worth learning .
All the above! Wherever there is a crack where wood meets plaster, or movement (timber beading) rake out and apply caulk. The size of the tip should only be slightly wider than the crack, best avoid excess size bead of caulk as the clean up time becomes a bit of a factor and a source of angst.
What caulk to use is a whole essay and a half. A couple of years ago UK Sealants put me on to Soudal Acryrub (not the cheap version at B&Q) it is siliconised caulk, and seems to work with all acrylic emulsion and any paint for woodwork without crazing. Everyone seems to have their favourites, but I would say the crazing issue is distilled down to a strong link between incompatibility of vinyl emulsion and standard acrylic caulk .
Well Andy another lesson learned rake out,whats the best tool would you recommend,got to do this tomorrow.
Triangular shave hook is a good one to have around
I generally rake out cracks with a 1" scraper then dust off. For general caulking I currently use one from ScrewFix made by Evo-Stick (380ml) tubes.
Cut the nozzle at an angle of about 30 degrees and take your time when applying, until you get the hang of it!
I always have a damp sponge to hand for wiping over the caulk, this also help push it into the cracks but not to much pressure as you may wipe it out. For ceiling/wall joints you could use an old paintbrush and keep wetting it before brushing over your caulk, again do this with very little pressure or you will pull the caulk out.
A silicone profiler is a rather helpful tool to ‘square-off’ caulk, where it is not desired to be rounded by a finger. Yes, wipe the end of the caulk nozzle with a damp sponge or the like & NOT tracksuit bottoms or your overalls.
I generally use the original painters mate by geocel! but I do carry the geocel 480 acrylic caulk, as well, which has mould inhibitors & is very useful for doing around window frames in rooms of high humidity where condensation could be a problem.
I wrap a pretty wet cloth around the tube with one hand scrape of excess caulk just below the nozzle on the rim of the gun and them clean the finger on the wet cloth before caulking, always using the same clean wet finger.
Another way to do it is to press the caulk into shape with a wet Jay cloth wrapped over a finger, but caulk will tend to migrate onto your hands after a while of doing this. Using a Cox gun -just the cheap one- is the most important tip of all as it stops flowing when you stop pressing even without the use of the pressure release tab.