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Tikkurila Helmi 10 not bonding to BIN

Hi All,

I have been searching the forum for this problem and came across a topic titled " Seeking advice on chipped paint (Hand painted)" The lady that posted this seems to have experienced the same issues as I am. The only difference is that the Helmi 10 is only not bonding to the primer, where as the lady poster seemed to have primer problems too. Okay, some background. I am building my kitchen from Birch ply, Tulip Wood (American Poplar) and MDF for the door faces. Fortunately, I chose to only paint the bottoms of the wall cabinets by way of a test to see if I’m capable of getting a good finish, using some of the methods described on this site. Here is what I did.

  • Sanded Birch ply, Applied Zinsser BIN with short nap roller, sanded BIN and applied a second coat. Sanded second coat and applied top coats of Helmi 10. Tack clothes used between all coats.

I am wondering if I might already have the answer to this problem and wondered if you guys might agree? When I applied the Zinsser BIN I sanded it with 240 grit Mirka Arbranet, but because I’m trying so hard to get a flat finish, I sanded the primer so that it was very smooth. It has a polished feel to it. Do you good people think that this is why it scratches off easily, even with a finger nail in places?

Many thanks for any advice given.

Hi warm welcome,zinerser bin is an excellent adhesion primer, thats one of its top quality’s. I myself, I would just give a light sand, and two /or three coats of helmi80.The trouble with smooth surfaces, its harder to achieve mechanical adhesion unlike a keyed surface. Also remember some paints stick better than others, and every primer is different.I like tikkurila ottex,not only do you get a nice build, but the top coat levels nicely, and smells better than bin as well.With decorating all you need is a love for it,the rest can be learned as you go along,goodluck.

Hi Darlic, Thank you for your reply. I have used BIN for years, on and off. I generally don’t use anything else. I have come to the decision to spay the BIN as I struggle to get rid of the brush or roller marks. I have got a Fuji 3 stage HVLP which I know handles BIN with no trouble at all. I have avoided it, as I don’t really have any extraction. I have a A2-P3 mask etc, so I guess I’ll partly open the garage door and go for it. Can I ask, is the Otex a water base or oil? Thanks ever so much for your guidance.

no worries its oil based.

Hi Keith, you have a job on! Just to reinforce what Jason said, you really want to be applying Helmi over Otex for the Tikkurila spec. The two coatings are a compatible spec. Of course BIN is a great stainblocker, so if that is needed, apply BIN, but then use Otex (oil based) as a bridge coat. Tint it to match the topcoat, and only scuff the Otex to remove any blemishes, don’t polish it up.

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Hi Andy, Thank you so much. I will definitely go with the Ottex. I’m thinking I might leave out the BIN as Tulip wood is isn’t knotty and is pretty stable. The rest of the build is birch ply and MDF, so no worry’s there. Clearly, I have been trying a bit too hard sanding the BIN. I’m just desperate to get finish looking top notch. I obviously need to look at my technique. Again, thank you very much for your help. If I ever get this kitchen finished, I’ll put some photos in here, assuming I’m not too embarrassed!