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Toupret gras a laquer handy tips

Theres been a few lessons i hope i can pass on to someone,

my first mistake was over application,don’t wont to repeat that again,i used a plastic scraper to remove then undercoated,again,then reapplied in two thin layers,valuable lesson

then the next mistake although i work tidy got a bit stuck on path, need a Armour off cleaning stuff to sort these problems when they arise,

When i used the wet and dry i used with spray bottle with few drops of fairy,can anyone recommend a sanding block like the handy pads designed for wet and dry paper,that would make the job a lot easier, still got frame so any help with a sanding block will be appreciated,

now for application i found the continental blades good,but when the toupret was ready for sanding,i used the plastic filling blade to knock the pieces off that i put on slightly too thick on the edge, I then used wet and dry paper seemed to work,

i was thinking about using my mirka hand sander with fine paper anyone tried that if so what grade or is the wet and dry a must.

When it comes to the frame,i have a piece off flexible plastic which should help me shape the thin layer of touprett on edge.

As for tape on glass on the door and frame,i used frogtape, kept this on for a few weeks. Next time i would use very low tack tape,the trouble with the way i done things stripping a door,being very fussy over the filling,three coats off otex, re coat time 24 hours and that’s if the weathers good, then the application of toupret gras a laquer, two coats, another wait, then the glossing, that’s 24 hours between coats, so if i am going to quote on these jobs,how do i charge,and what time limit to tell customer,

i was thinking charge a hourly rate and of course, its down to weather conditions, but its certainly enjoyably work.

Now as for the gras a lacquer,can i use straight on glossed panel doors providing i have done correct preparation?

Wwhat about walls, anyone tried this? What other uses dose this product have will it stick to water based paint surfaces, will you get the same shine if you use a water based gloss, or emulsion, :slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile: keep pressing on.

On the frame i found the Hamilton filling blade best,that’s a lesson for next time,and the continental blade to keep the blade clean because nice and sharp,this is very satisfying work.

Gras a lacquer provides a surface suitable for enhancing the sheen for any paint used for woodwork. It should apply fine to well prepared gloss, but I have not gone that route myself, always used it over undercoat, so check it out for adhesion before skimming whole door.

A rubber sanding block is my wet n dry block of choice. Dry sanding works too.

As well as gras a lacquer, the Dutch painters also use brushing putty for the mouldings.

The traditional recipe I have seen is linseed putty diluted with turpentine and chalk added.

Car body spray putty is a bit more brittle.

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Another door done with gras lacquer this is interior this time, added a drop off white sprit this time